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5.8L fuel injector question

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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 10:34 AM
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5.8L fuel injector question

<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">Greetings all,

I have a stock F250 hd 4x4 with a 5 speed and a 5.8L (351w). Starts and runs well enough, but after running for half an hour or more and shutting off, it usually won't start unless it sits for at least 30 minutes or so. I think the #8 injector is bleeding off and locking up the cylinder (hydrostatic lock?) until the gas exits one way or another (I can hear the system bleed off, and that plug is wet with fuel when pulled). If anyone has another idea I would be thrilled to hear it though.

Anyway, the injectors need replacing regardless. Does anyone know if Bosch/Ford 19 lb. design-3 injectors, part #0280155700 will work in my stock rig without making any changes, as in electronics or adjustments? I was told they would, but when I cross-referenced it in one catalog it showed that injector working in 4.6L, 5.0L and the ten cylinders, but not the 5.8L. Of course, that particular catalog only went back to about '95 or '96.

I use this rig to haul my stock trailer, so it kinda needs to be functional. Rther irritating to either leave it running all the time or plan on having that extra cup or two of coffee while waiting on the "lock-up" to fade (on the other hand, that can be a convenient excuse to give the Mrs.).

Thanks much,
Rob
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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The 5.0 and 5.8 use the same injectors.... I have a set out of my 5.0 running in my 5.8 right now. But I doubt an injector could leak enough fuel to hydrolock a piston.. it evaporates too quickly. Are you saying the motor won't even crank when it's hot, or does it crank and not fire? Both of these are probably more electrical type problems. Corroded battery and/or starter connections will drop enough voltage that the starter cannot turn a hot motor, and if it cranks but doesn't fire it could be a weak ignition coil or module.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 02:42 PM
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Paul,
So....I take it you're using 19 lb. injectors in your 5.9L? I haven't torn mine out yet...gonna go down to the corrals and take a look to see what color (yellow/orange for 19 lbs., I think???) they are in a couple of minutes.

I put a new starter in the rig about a year ago. If I were to go kick the tires and light the fires right now she'd spin over and fire up just like new...does it every time. BUT if I drove twenty miles to town for parts and shut her off while in the store, when I turn the key it will crank, but just barely (sometimes barely, sometimes just enough to catch and start)...kinda like old chevs (yuk) do when they're hot. If I go for a cup of coffee and wait 20 or 30 minutes, she'll spin right up and go like the wind. This is a pretty consistant deal.

I put the new starter in. All the connections are good. It did this before the new starter and after the new starter.

I haven't been using the rig more than twice a month or so over the last year and have been just living with it the way it is. Runs great, starts great, just don't turn it off unless you've got a couple of minutes to kill, har har. Gonna be using it more in the future so I need to get it functional....a couple of other issues like a non-working front fuel tank need attention too.

I've checked the fuel pressure regulator...it wasn't full of go-juice and seemed to be OK. It's been a few months but the last time I checked the #8 plug was wet with gas when I pulled it. Hmmmmmm.......reckon I could absolutley test the hydrolock theory by waiting until it had the cranking issue the next time, pull that plug immediately, and then see if she'll spin over in a normal fashion with an open number 8 plug hole.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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The odds are still stacked against hydro lock. I mean.. what are the chances the engine will shutoff with #8 cylinder coming up to the compression stroke every time. That's the only way it could lock up because there's no way for the fuel to get out... assuming your rings have perfect seal. If you haven't checked it already, inspect the engine ground and battery ground, current needs a complete circuit to follow and any resistance will drop your cranking power.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 10:34 PM
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Paul,
Yup, I know what you mean. On the other hand, I just checked things over for the umpteenth time this afternoon. The fuel pressure regulator doesn't throw gas out the vac hole, so the diaphragm is OK. The connections all appear to be fine on the electrics end of things. I started it eight seperate times this afternoon and each time it spun over with gusto and started like a new truck (only ran it for a minute or two each time).

BUT after a twenty-five minute drive I shut it off and then tried to re-start it a minute later....and it could barely turn over. Tried again 35 minutes later and she fired up like a new rig...again. It has acted this way consistently.

Cooling system appears to be fine. Coolant looks/tests good. Oil looks good. Battery stays topped off with juice just fine.

Strange, eh? On the other hand, it wouldn't take much liquid to prevent it from spinning over. Hydraulic power is pretty amazing. It always runs fine...this doesn't make the engine quit....just makes it a bear to re-start. And it will partially spin over, like a piston coming up partially and then no more. Reaching for stars here, I know, but perhaps the piston comes up too fast for the liquid to expel from the cylinder, and the remainder stops her up. Every now and then it will turn over just enough to fire off, probably about 20% of the times I've tried it after shutdown form an extended drive.

Next time it does it I am going to pull that plug out immediately. If it spins over in a normal fashion with the plug out, that will clearly solve the dilemma, eh? If not, then it's back to the drawin' board.

Thanks,
Rob
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 03:08 PM
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How old is the battery? I had the same problem and narrowed it down to the battery (it was at least 5 years old at the time) by being able to start the engine with help from a booster battery and jumper cables. A new battery and no more hot starting problems.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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retard your timing by 5 degrees and see if that helps
this would fix most of those old ch**ys that did this
 
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Old May 3, 2022 | 10:18 AM
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Sounds like your starter is getting heat soaked or you have some sort of grounding issue if it is turning over labored.
 
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Old May 19, 2022 | 08:50 AM
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Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see if the pressure is bleeding off when you shut it down, if it is you more than likely have one or more leaky injectors.
Recheck the main battery cables if corrosion has built up under the insulation it could affect the voltage. Recheck the ground on the block.
Last thought is it's possible the starter could be getting heat soaked, you could try to get a heat shield between the starter and exhaust.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 08:18 AM
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Leaky injectors would only cause it to crank a little longer before building back fuel pressure, and clearing the liquid (not atomized fuel). Did you put in a new starter or a rebuilt parts store starter? I had a heat soak starter do the same thing. Odds are, your starter has a warranty. Change it and battery, and go from there.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 08:27 AM
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A leaking fuel injector or injectors are normally the cause for difficult or hard to start engines especially when they are warm. This is because the fuel rail pressure has dropped and fuel has leaked into the manifold and causes the spark plugs to become flooded. Among these symptoms is your engine's inability to start at all due to lack of combustion.

I myself still think the starter is overheated.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2022 | 10:28 AM
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No point in responding to this thread, the OP hasn't been here since Last Activity: 03-08-2007 08:10 AM

15 years later.....
 
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Old Jun 10, 2022 | 11:50 AM
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Yes, again, I didn't look at the dates on the original post.....LOL
 
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