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I have a few people advicing me to get the new 6.4L. I'm not planning on doing this or at very least in the next 5 years. Here where it lises. These guys are telling me the 6.4L is the same motor as the 6.0. Now it could be the same block {as in the 302 and the 351} but its a different engine. Why i say this is cause 6.4 is the cubicinches but just in liters"metric". I know the extra turbo did'nt add .4liters to the displacement. Matter of fact the displace is figured by bore x's stroke X's ???. I cant remember the rest. To my point the 2 engines might share blocks and might share some componits but are not the same. Its either this or diesels are very different than gasser and i need to study some more.
It is basically untouched, just some machining. The bore is 0.130" larger, and it has a 0.004" longer stroke than the 6.0. I personally don't think you have anything to worry about with a 6.4, but then again I haven't even seen one yet... I only going on what I've heard and read.
I dont want one. But i have'nt seen one yet. When i talk to people about putting gauges in my truck they are telling to get a 6.4. I like my 04 and i plan on keeping it. I would think that these performence shops would be glad to do my work, but sadly enough i'm going to have to drive 62 miles to get a pryo and boost gauge installed. What stinks is this guy wont install a tranny temp gauge.
Exiled, if you can get him to run the tranny wire down with the pyro wire when he installs that, you could install the tranny sender in about 2 min.
Thats what i told him as per the instructions i've found. I've got some pretty illastrated instruction on installing the 3 gauges in a pillar. But he refuses. So that leaves me having to settle for a 2 pod cluster. You can see i'm not in a rush to his shop. I'm sorta worried about doing the drilling in the manafolds myself.
Geez, just jump in and do the install yourself on the tranny. It is one wire from the sender off the pan (see pic)and a light setup which you can tie off of the ones he puts in for the other guages.
You can always take to a dealer who will install for you, all of them.
Lonewolf i have no problem with installing the tranny temp myself but the will only install a 2 pod pillar and wont let me brang my own stuff. So its buy what he has and him install it.
Jackofalltrades i'm not that concerned about the pyro except getting metal shavings into the turbo. its really the boost gauge i'm worried about i hate working with alum. its too soft. The guy has a pretty good price 2 gauges 2 pod pillar installed for $350. although yesterday i found someone to do all 3 but its $600 parts and installtion. I doubt i take that route. $600 is hard for me to let go of. I'm not cheap and i believe in paying for playing but $600 goes along way on the farm. And it knocks a chunk out of my "just in case money".
I do appreciate the advice guys.
Well you won't have to do a boost drill if you add the accufab intake at the same time as it comes w/ the hole already drilled and tapped. OR you can set it post turbo and put it in the metal exhaust section . . . See gallery
I won't blow sunshine at ya, the pyro install on the exhaust manifold was a pain, mostly because of removing the manifold. I'm sure some will tell you that you can drill and tap it in place, but man... I just don't think it's worth the risk of leaving metal shavings in the manifold. I had a pile of metal shavings on the workbench after I drilled and tapped mine.
HOWEVER.... there is also a camp out there who say that they get perfectly good EGT readings by tapping the downpipe right after the turbo, which of course is much easier to do. In fact, my brother-in-law's '95 is set up that way, since the aftermarket downpipe he bought already had a threaded bung there just for that application!
I'd like to find if anyone has compared temps in a dual setup (probes in both the manifold and downpipe).
Also, like Lonewolf says, the tranny temp is a simple no-brainer and easy to do. I hate these shops that say "We'll only install stuff you buy here". Find another shop.
My current setup has no pillar guages. The Banks PDA shows it all
the windsor blocks are not the same. the 351 has a taller deck.
Its my understanding that one of the 351s is the same block i dont know if its thw winsor,cleveland, or modified. I alway thought is was the winsor though. Almost everything interchanged. I think just the heads on the 351c will interchange with the 302 but you have to modify somthing about the valve covers of the cleveland and it has 1 more bolt for the valve cover so using 302 valve covers would'nt work.
So just in case i was wrong i'll do it this way {like the 352?,360,390,427 and 428}.
Take the aluminum snorkle off. Go to your local machinist and have him drill and tap the hole for the fitting for the boost guage. Put a plug in it, and install the guages yourself.
I do recommend removing the drivers exhaust manifold to drill for the Pre-Turbo EGT thermocouple. There's no gasket. The clamp/bolts to the up pipe to the turbo is the only pain in the ****. Drilling and tapping cast iron isn't difficult at all.
I wish you were closer to me.. I'd do the whole job for $250.
As for installing the thermocouple in the down pipe, Post Turbo, that doesn't give the most accurate temperature of what's affecting the turbo vanes.
Pre-turbo EGT temperature is your quickest indicator of a malfunction or over-temp. I do have both guages installed, but I've yet to install the post turbo thermocouple. -Been lazy.
Boost is just a plastic tube to the guage. Lighting power for the guage was tapped off the headlight/dimmer switch.
Exiled, I thought I saw that you were in Canada. Oops. My mistake.
NO, 351c heads will not "bolt" on to a windsor block. (and function anyway) 351m heads will not either. The Windsors are: 260, 289, 302, 351.
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