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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 10:27 AM
  #1  
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No Codes

2001 Expedition 4.6l runs rough all the time, check engine light went from blinking to steady. Went to auto zone to pull codes. they will not read(tried two testers)as in nothing. Ran two cans of seafoam through it, no change. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 07:25 AM
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From: St Louis
YOu have a common misfire. Seafom and the like will have zero effect on it. You will need the fault code(s) to determine where to start troubleshooting.

What do you mean by "will not read"? If the scanners cannot communicate with your vehicle's computer, you have an open fuse (the one that powers the scan tool port). On certain vehicles, it's on the lighter plug fuse. On others, it's a separate fuse. Don't have my manuals in front of me to look it up for your specific truck.

If the scanner does connect but does not read any fault codes, you have a different problem.

Steve
 

Last edited by projectSHO89; Jan 23, 2007 at 07:31 AM.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 06:09 AM
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Thanks Steve. Found the fuse thing in the modular v8 forum and fixed that. Cleared the codes in frustration before I did to reset the computer . When all else fails , try something is my motto. Changing plugs and visually checking cop's now. Gotta hit sears for more extensions and universals for #7 and #8. Found a possible head gasket, I think, problem on drivers side. Rusty water in #5 and #6. Does that sound right?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 07:41 AM
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From: St Louis
Originally Posted by talnro
Thanks Steve. Found the fuse thing in the modular v8 forum and fixed that. Cleared the codes in frustration before I did to reset the computer . When all else fails , try something is my motto. Changing plugs and visually checking cop's now. Gotta hit sears for more extensions and universals for #7 and #8. Found a possible head gasket, I think, problem on drivers side. Rusty water in #5 and #6. Does that sound right?
No. The water is from the environment, not the engine. It in no way indicates a gead gasket problem. Do make certain you clean the holes out with shop air before removing the affected plug(s) to keep the junk from falling into the open cylinder.

The water in the hole probably was the cause of your misfire. It gets in there and allows arcing which eventually leads to carbon tracking and burned boots (often not visible) which will cause persistent misfires. At a minimum, replace the spark plug and the boot/spring. AutoZone sells the boot kits for around $5 each. Use a GENEROUS amount of dielectric grease in each boot when reassembling.

Steve
 
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 01:31 PM
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Thanks again Steve, Got to thinking, misfire started after having it detailed. Betting that they pressure washed the motor. Ihad water in #5, #6, And#7. Changed plugs and boots. We'll see.

Tal
 
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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Greetings from South Cakalacky. Having the same problem here. Started this week. All was okay for a day or so, once I replace the starter sol. After two days it went to cutting back hard. New plugs have about 7.5k on them. Funny thing is it will skip most of the time, but will plain out for a second or two. Please let me know how this works out on your plug change. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 11:01 AM
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Drove about 50 miles yesterday, after posting, and it ran fine. Yeah we fixed it!


Tal
 
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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Saw something on an automotive TV show that was pretty cool. The easiest way to check for sparking is to park the truck in a completely dark space and look that the engine while running. If there is arching between the plug, boot, or cop and the head, it will be very obvious. Little sparks light up the darkness pretty easily.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 10:30 PM
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From: St Louis
Originally Posted by Jones02SportTrac
Saw something on an automotive TV show that was pretty cool. The easiest way to check for sparking is to park the truck in a completely dark space and look that the engine while running. If there is arching between the plug, boot, or cop and the head, it will be very obvious. Little sparks light up the darkness pretty easily.
This is highly unlikely to be of any benefit on a COP-eqipped engine. The "business" end of each coil is extremely recessed and would never be visible.

For an engine equipped with conventional plug wires, it can be helpful. A spray mist bottle makes it even more interesting.



talnro,

Yes, that makes perfect sense. I'd present the detailer with the repair bill since he should know better than to spray one of these engines.

Steve
 
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