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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Changing Rear Brakes

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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 03:40 PM
  #1  
djf48's Avatar
djf48
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Changing Rear Brakes

I have a 97 F250, driving home from Denver last night the rear brakes really started grinding...metal on metal! How big of a job is it to change the drums and pads,and, what parts do I need?

Thanks
Doug
 
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 04:24 PM
  #2  
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ForemanES
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Its not that bad. Just jack up the rear axle throw some jack stands under there and remove both rear tires and drums. Then work on one side and if you need the other side is there for reference (just oppisite).

When I did mine a few years ago I found the drums had heat cracks in them and had to replace them as well. They sell spring kits that replace old worn out stuff.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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fishmanndotcom
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From: Senoia, GA
ehh brakes are easy, i am in the middle of mine right now. i had the adjuster lever break and when it did the brake cylinder pushed itself apart and there went all my brakes! LUCKILY that sterling 10.25 is under my bronco in my sig so it wasnt going down the street, but it made me wonder!

o yea, back to topic, lol, the hardest part of it is getting the springs all attached. i took a somewhat large screwdriver and ground a small notch in the head, this allows me to put the end of the spring in the notch and while i push the screwdriver i can use my other hand to attach to small backing plate hooks!

anywho, got any questions feel free to PM me since i have my junk torn apart now anyway. but you'll be fine!

-cutts-
 
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 07:14 PM
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Cuda_jim
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From: MICHIGAN
Another fun part is getting the drums off. I had to beat the snot of mine before they came off. Get a BFH and hit the drum in between the studs. If you have an air Hammer, even better. Use penetrating oil around the center and next to the studs. Oh ya, don't forget to un-adjust the brakes or the drum will catch on the shoes.

I made the same srew driver mod as fishmann for the springs PITA!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 09:52 PM
  #5  
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audimaster
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From: Indiana
buy the better and more expensive brake shoes

I got the $16.99 ones and they are really "grabby". Basically they lock up when cold making me wish I had the stock motorcraft ones again.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 11:20 AM
  #6  
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another thing to do is take a flat head screwdriver and stick it in the slot and loosen up the tension to help the drums come off easier. If the pads are tight against the drums, then it will behard to get them off. So just loosen them up a little.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 11:23 AM
  #7  
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From: Kearney, Nebr
It also helps to have another set of hands the get the springs off. The problem when I went to replace my parking brake I noticed that my axle seals where shot. Little 20$ project turned into a big one.

They also have spring tools to help with removing and installing the springs. Kinda tricky to figure out how to use but it works better than a giant screwdriver.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2007 | 12:52 PM
  #8  
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erl_berner
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From: Santee, CA
I'm Bleeeeeding...!

Hey, what are you guys doing for bleeding re: the ABS in our systems. I did my front pads, turned rotors etc... and went to flush the system out with a Mity-Vac. Worked fine except the pedal does seem a little mushy. Hard to tell with power brakes, but is anyone aware of anything special needing to be done to properly bleed our systems?
 
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