Ok, thanks.

Old chain had a ton of slop as compared to the new one. Easily could move back and forth 1/2 -3/4" inch.

 

Ok, after a few glitches fired up and ran fine. Put back on road after 4 months. Drove 4 miles and hit a heard (not one) a heard of deer. I even had deer running into the side of it. Now disgusted that my new sweet ride is cursed I will set off to put back togeather one more time. Anything else and this thing is gone. I need a source of good used body parts that I could order on line. Anyone know? Need the hood, passenger side lights and all plastic assoiated with it, new center grille, radiator, heater fan shroud, mass air flow sensor, the entire air filer box, fan shroud. The dam thing even broke my brand new water pump!

 

Bummer! You're probably like me and only carry liability insurance.
So how did it run up until then?

 

http://www.raybuck.com/wsm/c-155_86-...ostar_van.html

http://www2.partstrain.com/products/ShopBody/Hood/1997~FORD~AEROSTAR~6~4-dot-0~AERO-AWD!4WD-006.html

http://car-part.com/index.htm

 

Thanks, It Was Running Great, Unfortunately Not Faster Than The Deer

 

Did you at least get a herd's worth of venicin steaks?

 

I think in the circumstances you should fit a Safari style crash bar to the front of the van, a pair of high pitched whistles (specially for that job) might help to warn away the deer!

Bad luck ,

Aeroman.

 

Aerostar bumper structure has no heavy gauge metal in it, so it does not provide a good platform for mounting anything strong. I wonder if it would be strong enough even for light bars.

 

had an uncle who used to hunt blackberry mutton with the front I beam bumper on his Ford F100
1000 lb bull elk take no drivers or passengers alive....

 

Ok, back from a 2 1/2 hour shopping spree for parts...$400

My 94 has been having a problem and with all the crap on my 97 haven't been able to deal with. Back when it was cold it would not idle when the engine was cold. Had to push the trottle even to get it to start. I replaced the coolant temp sensor and air charge temp sensor and the problem went away for about a month and came back. Well I just continued to drive it. When it is cold you have to hold the throttle and brake at stop lights to keep it running. Once it warms up completely after about 10 minutes it idled on it's own and runs fine. Now that the temperatures are warming up I have noticed there is a line somewhere between 60 and 70 degrees. If I go out in the morning and it's lower than 60 I have the same problem, if higher it will start like it should normally and I don't have to mess with anything. On days when it is bad and it is cold it does not run real well until it warms up. The timing seems to be retarded as it does not seem to have much power and when accelerating it seems to want to run right every other second or so as you can feel it surge back and forth between how it should run and how it shouldn't any ideas?

 

clean the IAC = soak in TB or injector cleaner, works abt 50% of the time, Ford says not cleanable
or replace with new

disconnect neg- batt lead for 5 minutes to clear KAM so that PCM relearns operating parameters

 

Ford wants us to bue new parts. I can understand.

 

Ford and other manufs put the IAC between the PCV tube dump and the intake plenum in the 4L, should have the PCV tube dump after the IAC and directly into the plenum
some of the crankcase gases end up going thru the IAC valve and plugging, swelling, damaging the flexible diaphram
not a Ford better idea

 

Well I have now put about 600 miles on the 97 with the 3.0 with rebuilt heads and new timing chain. It got about 21 mpg hiway before with really bad plugs and wires. Now with new wires and plugs I had a subtle miss through the rpm range. While crusing at highway speed you can barely feel it but I know it is there. About every two seconds or so you fell a slight bump. The idle seems high to no matter whether it is warm or cold. I checked the highway mileage and it is down to 19. Any ideas? Also not sure if it is the same problem but is does not accerate somthly wheter warm or cold. Did this before I had the problem with the heads.

 

any codes? CEL not important
some auto parts stores offer use of scanner instead of code reader
record parameters and post here
also, some college auto shop courses offer free scanner diagnostics as part of their training

97 has OBDII which continually monitors for misfires and stores same with snap shot in memory at time of event, will tell you which cyl is misfiring...can be injector, plug, wire, etc.


OBDII scanner is a cost effective investment for all newer vehicles...will pay for itself in just a couple incorrect repairs or wrong parts
the auto manuf.s have such a large investment in OBDII CAN and it works so well that it will be around for at least the next 10 years