already pulled timing cover. although much slack the cam and crank are in sync. had intended to replace timing chain too since I was already in there.

As far as checking rod goes you mean drop the oil pan and pull the piston out? I guess I may have been mis informed but i was told that you have to disconnect the transmisson to pull oil pan, never looked though. Geez if I am unhooking transmission I am two bolts away from a new motor.

 

You can't pull pistons out from bottom. Just remove oil pan and the rods are right there. Check one or two. There should be no visible wear or just a slight polish. Ideally they look like they were installed yesterday and the engine never even started. This is how my mains looked, amazing. Any wearing through layers means to replace them. Autozone carries them in stock for about 25.00.

Ken

 

Sorry for the misunderstanding. I menat disconnect rod from crank and take out from top to inspect. Sounds like that is not necessary.

Question though. No visable wear or slight polish on what? You talking about he connecting rods?

 

When you remove the two bolts on the rod cap, there will be a bearing inserrt on the cap and the above part. push the piston up slightly to free it. the top insert will be worn because it takes the pressure. They are reusable if perfect. keep everything spotless. You won't believe the tiny tabs that hold them in place but the system works perfectly. do one at a time and make sure the cap goes on exactly as removed. you may need to make a scratch mark to be sure. the work is easy but critical. if a rod cap goes on backwards, I am not sure this is even possible, the engine will seize in 30 seconds. the caps must go on as they came off. you will need a snap (click) type torque wrench to reassemble.

The work is very easy. all rod bearing inserts can be changed in 20 minutes after the pan is down. turn the crank to get each rod in an easy position. actually, it is quite fun. just make sure the caps go back on exactly as removed. there is no tolerance for error here. look at them before removing to make sure reassembly goes smoothly and do one at a time. You can get pictures of this on the internet. all engines use the same system so if you find a dodge site that is clear, it will apply to your engine too.

Enjoy.

Ken

 

when reassembling, use lots of assembly lube.

Ken

 

You will almost certainly need standard size bearings. oversize is needed if the crank is reground only.

Ken

 

a piston > valve hit major enough to damage piston top and bend valve stem often bends the rod and or cracks the piston, breaks rings or bends the wrist pin...
head is off to replace valve so check rod, piston, rings and wrist pin at same time...
you may have had something hard go thru engine...any work done recently on intake plenum system back to air cleaner?....
loose parts can set in plenum for years and be shook out by bump or vibration=engine toast

find the real cause or all your expensive repairs, labor and parts will be wasted

 

no engine repairs for 9 years. I know previous owner. The push rod for the exhaust valve is what bent. No metal in oil. I have the heads in the shop being checked out. The valve looked straight, just appears to be seized in the open position. Send me an email address and I will send you a couple photos of the top of the piston and cylinder. Or write me at ehawks@fveng.com

 

The siezed valve would certainly cause the pushrod to get bent. Maybe check out the oilways to valves & the rockers. You might be able to drive the oil pump with an external drive somehow. Check your oil pressure also.

Sounds like it's not a major deal.

All the best Aeroman

 

I took the heads to a local machine shop so they could go though them.

 

i would put in a new oil pump also, will need one soon anyway
prime with some GM EOS and Vaseline which is just plain old mineral petroleum grease
check the pickup screen and the pickup tube for any damage, holes or plugging

also check that roller lifter for oil hole plugging and damage...all the valve train oil for the 3L is fed up thru the hollow push rods

 

I guess if the engine was quiet and ran well without oil consumption you will probably be ok to not check pistons.

But it will only take you 30 minutes to pull and look at them.

Ken

 

Ok, Got it almost put back togeather. Between having the heads rebuilt and putting in a new timing chain, water pump, lifters pushrods (might as well while you are in there) I have $700 into it. Got a new torque wrench too. Sweating bullets on everyone of those head bolts and intake manifold bolts. I tore into putting my new plug wires too fast. I got goofed up and my Haynes Manual seemed to not jive with the numbers on the old plug wires. Could someone help me with the wiring. I know where the cylinders are 123 passsenger side from front and 456 from drivers side front. But from the electronic distributor could someone tell me starting from front right going in a clockwise order what connects to what clyinder. Would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

My Chilton's says:

With the electrical connector on the right hand side it should be:


5 1
6 2
4 3


with "5" on the rear, left (passenger) side
and "3" on front right (driver) side

Hope that helps...I had the exact same problem when I replaced the heads on my 94 3.0...ended up with my timing off 180 degrees...that was a head scratcher for a novice...but I finally figured it out...lol


Good luck!

M

 

good job

Aero Coil Pack w plug click


print it out and take to engine, helps for visual

Haynes is worthless....

Chilton's is far better

Ford Service CD along with Ford Shop Manual is the best
CD avail free online, Shop manual ebay

how much wear slack in old chain/gear set?