Ignition control module problems
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Ignition control module problems
Ok, here goes. I just bought a 75 F150 Explorer. When the truck warms up after a while it starts cutting out and dies and won't start untill it sits a while. I checked the forum and went with the ig. control mod. The problem is that the one I have tested good. I bought a new one anyway thinking that it might be testing good because it was cold again. Anyway, I put the new one in and let the truck heat up. After about 30 mins. it happened again. I had kept the old module, so, I just plugged it in and the truck started and ran again. That narrows my problem down to the ig. control mod., right? If so, is the new module bad also, or could something be making them get too hot? Thanks
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Engine quites when warm
I have had the same problem with mine and it could be the ignition module but it could also be your pick up module in the distributor. I just purchased a HEI distributor from Bronco graveyard today be cause I am tired of chasing down electrical gremlins in my dura spark ignition.
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The DS system is simple. It also works better than the HEI system for a variety of reasons. If the ballast resistor in the coil primary circuit has been bypassed it will overheat the coil and the module. If the coil is shorted it will overheat both also. The first thing to do for a quick test is to take the module, pickup, and coil to the parts store and have them tested. Then if those test good follow the diagnostic routine in the service manuals exactly to the letter and you will find your problem.
Always make sure the ignition module is mounted 1/4" off the fender for cooling. If you need a new module get a Motorcraft module. Most of the other aftermarket modules will fail within 6-12 months. A lifetime warranty won't pay for wasted expensive fuel. Many of the Motorcraft modules in junkyards are perfectly good and shouldn't cost more than a few bucks. Have them tested at the parts store.
Always make sure the ignition module is mounted 1/4" off the fender for cooling. If you need a new module get a Motorcraft module. Most of the other aftermarket modules will fail within 6-12 months. A lifetime warranty won't pay for wasted expensive fuel. Many of the Motorcraft modules in junkyards are perfectly good and shouldn't cost more than a few bucks. Have them tested at the parts store.
Last edited by Torque1st; Jan 2, 2007 at 10:56 PM.
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^^^^^THIS IS EXCELLENT ADVICE^^^^^ What kills more modules is HEAT...the modules with the plastic RED square (Modules were color coded for easy ID'ing) are the most affected (at least this was true in 1977-79). Ford finally woke up in 1987, moving the modules back down the left fender apron, where they were out of the direct flow of engine heat.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jan 3, 2007 at 04:21 AM.
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Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by Torque1st
That module spacing tip was in a Ford TSB that I can no longer find.
..I was going to type basically the same info you gave. I have no idea what the TSB said, I DO remember all the problems we had in 1977, shortly after the red modules (D7AZ-12A199-A) were introduced. Ordering new ones was impossible as they were D99...the dreaded Back Ordered-Detroit code. I scrounged local junkyards for used ones to keep customers cars on the road.
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I still scrounge the Junkyards for Motorcraft modules. Surprisingly I have never found a dead blue grommet unit. The aftermarket modules are all junk. Nobody seems to have been able to reverse engineer the Ford DS unit.
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My grommet is green, I don't guess that's too common. Is that a bad thing? I can take the module and coil to the parts store and have them checked easy enough, but I am not really sure what/where the pickup is or how hard it is to get on/off.
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None of the shops in town seem to be able to test a coil. As they are only about $20.00 and the one I have is probably the origonal (sp?) I will just buy a new one and see if that helps. If not it's not a huge loss and I have a back-up.