Ignition control module problems
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Joined: Jan 2008
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 65
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From: Lompoc
i had tons of problems with ignition modules. i finally bought the most expensive napa brand one they offer, it hasnt broke in 2 years and it has a lifetime warranty i believe. i also carry a spare not so good one with me.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2007
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Just wanted to update you guys. The starter bendix went out last week, and I didn't have the chance to work on it for a while. Anyway, I changed the starter and exchanged the module that I bought. That seems to have fixed the problem. Thank you guys for your help and I will be buying another new module just in case as they are not that expensive. Thanks again.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,760
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by Torque1st
Go to a salvage yard and get a used Motorcraft module and have it tested.:)
The old "ohm meter method" outlined in the shop manual (and Standard Motor Products' cheat-sheet too) didn't show mine was bad back in ~1978. But it was bad anyway.
I believe I killed my original nursing a bad battery that maybe had an open in it?
I bought a "Blue Streak" back then and it's still in there now working like a champ.
Also got a BluueStreak coil too with threaded terminals, it's cool as anything. ;)
Standard Motor Products(?) makers of the BlueSteak stuff, makes things like they mean it.
Alvin in AZ
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
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The new computerized tests seem to do a good job. So far they have been 100% accurate for me even catching some heat related defects on cold modules that surprised me. It seems to be the best quick test we have at the moment. As far as Standard Motor Products, quality can vary and I have found many failures in their products over the years. They seem to be higher quality than many store brand or no-name electrical modules tho but not quite up to the Motorcraft DS-II modules. One of them did not last 6 months in my van. The Motorcraft unit still works. I try to use SMP for most other electrical parts if available.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2007
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I took the module that came with my truck to 3 different auto stores to have it tested. At all three it tested good, but when it would get hot in the truck, it would cut out so I bought a new one (lifetime warranty). I put in the new one, same problem. I had the new one tested when I got it and it tested good, but I took it to another parts store just in case and it tested good again. Eventually I took the new on that I bought back to where I got it and exchanged it. The module that I got this time also tested good, but, it actually works where the others did not. No cutting out and dying when the truck gets hot. So, they are not fail-safe, the computerized testing has failed me numerous times just on one application.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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I suppose there are different kinds of machines out there and some may be better than others. The ones around here seem to be the same type, at least they look similar and have never failed me. For free you kind of take the good with the bad tho and take your chances. They are better than nothing.
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I took it one step further. Besides making sure there was a good air gap behind my module, I cut three cuts in the fender apron and bent the flap outward. This picks up fresh air when the truck is moving. Maybe not a lot but any helps. This was on my first '79 F-150, (The one that was stolen.) On my present '79 F-250, I never did get around to cutting a vent but I have a spare module mounted beside the other. I get several years service out of the modules bought from Checker Auto.
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Vent for ignition module.
I never had any mud or such thing come through the vent that I cut. I kept an eye on it and nothing more than a little dust came through. The plastic shield pretty much protects that area. Of course if you were mud bogging it's hard to say what would get in there. The bottom of the modules are encapsulated with epoxy and if they aren't covered with solids, like mud, the air could still keep it cooler. I was just street driving in N.W. IN and I never saw road salt come in. Truck wasn't raised, just stock.
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Hammer Test ?
On my '79 F-250 I once had a problem with stalling. At almost the same spot, about 3 miles from home, the truck died but restarted and was ok after that. After 2 or 3 episodes I took some advice that I had read somewhere. I started the truck, cold. Then i tapped the module, lightly, with a wooden hammer handle. Each time I tapped it, on different days, the engine died. A bad internal connection for sure. Didn't take long to replace that one. Actually a lot of modules are replaced because the connectors lose good contact. That's the first place to check, grease em up. The connector suggestion was from Click and Clack.