88 E350 ECM relay
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From: Easton,Ks
Here is the Diagram of the Ignition System You wanted:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...ionEseries.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g91/subford/Electrical/Ignition/TFIModule.gif
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...ionEseries.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g91/subford/Electrical/Ignition/TFIModule.gif
Last edited by subford; Dec 25, 2006 at 02:53 PM.
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Got any ideas on how I can test my ignition switch to make sure that is in fact the problem? I can't see anything evidently wrong with it. The plastic arm moves as it should but I have no real way of testing it to be sure it is in fact bad.
Maybe a test can be performed on one pin testing contiunity on another, perhaps the wire that supposed to supply voltage to the ECU/FPR/TFI module? Any ideas?
Maybe a test can be performed on one pin testing contiunity on another, perhaps the wire that supposed to supply voltage to the ECU/FPR/TFI module? Any ideas?
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by cr9c1
Got any ideas on how I can test my ignition switch to make sure that is in fact the problem? I can't see anything evidently wrong with it. The plastic arm moves as it should but I have no real way of testing it to be sure it is in fact bad.
Maybe a test can be performed on one pin testing contiunity on another, perhaps the wire that supposed to supply voltage to the ECU/FPR/TFI module? Any ideas?
Maybe a test can be performed on one pin testing contiunity on another, perhaps the wire that supposed to supply voltage to the ECU/FPR/TFI module? Any ideas?
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...hSchematic.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...IgnitionSw.gif
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by cr9c1
Okay, so if I'm correct, I should have continuity on at least 3/4 pins while in the run position on the ignition switch itself?
Can you rephrase it.
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I will check this tomorrow and report back. Im not quite sure but Im fairly certain I don't have continuity on all of the A/I terminals as I should.
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From: Easton,Ks
Check for continuity from I1 & I2 to BATT (POS, +) side of the Ignition Coil or Pin #3 of TFI Module plug.
The wire will be Red with a Green stripe in the engine compartment and the same at the I1 terminal but brown at the I2 terminal.
The wire will be Red with a Green stripe in the engine compartment and the same at the I1 terminal but brown at the I2 terminal.
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New ignition switch installed, no results. Same problem. No fuel pump or ECU coming on when the key is on.
Could it be the ECU relay itself? It doesn't click or come on when the key is on. I have to manuall activate it. Is there any extensive testing I can do on the ECU relay or do you think it might be something else?
Could it be the ECU relay itself? It doesn't click or come on when the key is on. I have to manuall activate it. Is there any extensive testing I can do on the ECU relay or do you think it might be something else?
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by cr9c1
New ignition switch installed, no results. Same problem. No fuel pump or ECU coming on when the key is on.
Could it be the ECU relay itself?
Could it be the ECU relay itself?
Originally Posted by cr9c1
It doesn't click or come on when the key is on. I have to manuall activate it. Is there any extensive testing I can do on the ECU relay or do you think it might be something else?
Do you have power at the two yellow wires at the Ignition Switch?
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Is it possible that the ECU is dead? (The computer itself)
That wouldn't make sense because I can manually close the relay. Is there an alternative to getting 12v to the red wire with the green stripe? If I can get 12v to the red/green wire, will that allow the vehicle to run?
That wouldn't make sense because I can manually close the relay. Is there an alternative to getting 12v to the red wire with the green stripe? If I can get 12v to the red/green wire, will that allow the vehicle to run?
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by cr9c1
Is it possible that the ECU is dead? (The computer itself)
You can unplug the EEC Computer, (not sure why you keep calling it an ECU) and you will still get spark.
Originally Posted by cr9c1
Is there an alternative to getting 12v to the red wire with the green stripe? If I can get 12v to the red/green wire, will that allow the vehicle to run?