Hi! I am thinking of spraying my 53 f100 myself, I have done a 51 8n tractor and it turned out pretty good. overspray was no problem at the time, but I am in a different location now. I knew a guy that used to take his projects apart and


spray them a piece at a time in his driveway. He never had a complaint from close by neighbors and never had a overspray on his concrete. Quality was OK for a driver and I would be satisfied with it on mine. Any ideas what he used?
All he ever said to me was he used a real small gun and sprayed a type of enamel.
Thanks , Oregon Bob

 

If you are considering spraying your own truck outdoors in pieces, I would make sure that I had one of the HVLP (high volume low pressure)guns (less overspray than the old guns). You need good repiratory protection-particularly with the newer paints. Get a tarp on the driveway to protect from overspray (there will be some). Wet the tarp and surrounding area to minimize dust from your movements and dragging a hose around and spray on a calm day when you will not have a flying insect problem in the paint. If you do everything right you will not duplicate the result that can come from a good downdraft paint booth. If you are really considering going this route, I would really consider having at least the exterior surfaces (final color) shot in a good both. Greater than 95% of the effort in the paintwork will be the prep. All of that prep work of metal repairs, priming, blocking, pit filling, etc,etc., etc., can be readily accomplished at a home shop or if necessary on a driveway without suffering the end quality of the paint.

Note that I have restored a number of my cars in the past doing all of my own body and paintwork. This time I will get the final primed and blocked sheetmetal into a booth. I may or may not actually hold the spray gun.

 

One other thing to consider is the paint type. My experience with enamels is they are slow to cure, taking hours instead of minutes. A good urethane single stage will give a similar look but will dry in a very short period of time, 15-20 min depending on the paint and additives used.
As 49willard has mentioned everything up until the final paint can easily be done without affecting quality of the final paint. Renting a paint booth from a local body shop and using his 'high volume dry' air can make a world of difference in the final results.

 

Oregon Bob--I have done what you suggest many times.I have 30 years of painting experience,and have made alot of mistakes,but when it comes to painting your own truck,etc--1 rule applies!!TAKE YOUR TIME!!I lay down cardboard,from a big appliance and do it piece by piece.You don't get overwhelmed when you contemplate every move.You said you do not care if it a perfect job!That is a good attitude--but don't forget others will compare your quality of bodywork/paint with professional jobs that cost them thousands of dollars!I think you go at it and use a hvlp and use base coat--it dries faster and then resand where the bugs,dirt get in it.I ALWAYS TOLD MY EMPLOYEES--1 thing about painting-you can always sand it and do it again!!Not true in machining an engine,etc.Once it is scrapped it may not be fixed.Paint on a nice day,and go at it slow and learn from your mistakes.GOOD LUCK