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I got black overspray on my white F-250 Fortunately (I hope) I had just waxed it so maybe that will help. Tried that liquid Clay bar and it wouldn't touch it.. So yesterday I stopped by an auto body supply place and the guy there (who seemed to know what he was talking about) told me to wash the truck with dish soap, then use Laquer thinner on a rag and it will come right off. He said then use a good polish on it and re-wax.
Although this guy seemed to be pretty knowledgable I always like to get second opinions and collect more information. especially since I've never done this before.
I'd be very careful applying laquer thinner to anything as it can cause most types of paints to blister up. You can probably water sand it off using 1000 to 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper then restore the gloss with a buffer and polishing compound.
was it just overspray paint or laQuer also cuz i know of a wax that takes just paint off but only if there has not been laquered...... and i know it works got black off grey (son playing with paint can)...got the wax at a nascar race even poilshes jewery and doe's wonder's on oxidized trim.....
was it just overspray paint or laQuer also cuz i know of a wax that takes just paint off but only if there has not been laquered...... and i know it works got black off grey (son playing with paint can)...got the wax at a nascar race even poilshes jewery and doe's wonder's on oxidized trim.....
Do Tell?? The overspray is just from a rattle can enamel black paint...
wiping with Lacquer thinner shouldn't really hurt a factory finish or a catalyzed paint. It would soften and could remove cheaper 1k finishes like enamel or lacquer. You could also maybe try a weaker solvent like mineral spirits or paint thinner and see if it does any good removing the overspray. Lacquer thinner or other solvent may make the finsih look sort of hazy, but washing then waxing or using a glaze will take care of it. But keep solvent away from any plastics, could melt some of them. You could try first in one of the least noticeable spots first if you are concerned. I am surprised the clay bar didn't do anything. If you had a buffer, you would likely be able to just compound and buff the overspray off, unless its something stubborn. You could also try compounding by hand, but more work removing and getting the finish looking good-so where compounded doesn't look dull and hazy with fine scratches, without the rpm a buffer has. Man just read your update, and would think that enamel spray bomb paint shouldn't be too difficult to remove. Maybe try a hand polish. Lots of things to try. Maybe some detailers in your area would do it reasonable too.
Last edited by kenseth17; Jul 19, 2007 at 05:43 PM.
I have some cleaner wax and a cheap WalMart 10' buffer so maybe I give that a go first....
One thing I forgot to mention was that I did take the truck to a local body shop to see what they could do. The guy that came out and looked at it said that they would use laquer thinner then buff it out but he also told me it was going to cost me about $500 BUCKS!! (LABOL INTENSIVE) he said??
Wow $500 bucks, just how much spray bomb paint is there and how did you wind up with it all over the truck? Did you stop at any detailers, Something like that would be what they do regularily. Not like a bodyshop wouldn't know how to buff, but do more collision and bodyrepair type stuff, and bodyshop rate is typically around $50/hr depending on area. Maybe check out this forum, just one out there, http://detailcity.org. Maybe you can find some good threads to read through, and get an idea of what something like that would cost, and what products they are using, or even find somebody in your area if its not removing easy for you and decide you want to take it to have done. One of those cheap orbital buffers are more meant for applying wax and really aren't going to have the speed and be able to do what an rotary buffer does, but you can give it a shot I guess, maybe it will work. If you can get solvent to remove the overspray, then a wash and hand glazing should get looking good again. Since I have a buffer, something like that, I'd just run my buffer with a cutting compound and glaze just like is done when colorsanding and buffing after a paint job, and be done with it.
Depends on the paint but most of that spray bomb stuff is pretty dry about 3 feet from the nozzle. So, I can 't imagine the bond being all that strong. I'd go with the buffing compound and polishing compound after that. Reapply the wax, of course.
Depends on the paint but most of that spray bomb stuff is pretty dry about 3 feet from the nozzle. So, I can 't imagine the bond being all that strong. I'd go with the buffing compound and polishing compound after that. Reapply the wax, of course.
I had almost the samr thing happen to me and i agree the buffing compound and the polishing compound cleaned up my Black with white over spray. Don't ask how it happened, I claim the Fifth, Uh I mean I was drinking a fifth but that's another story altogether.
I had almost the samr thing happen to me and i agree the buffing compound and the polishing compound cleaned up my Black with white over spray. Don't ask how it happened, I claim the Fifth, Uh I mean I was drinking a fifth but that's another story altogether.
I'm with you there!! I don't want to talk about how it happened to me either.
well i'm saying again that the royal blue works and there isn't all that labor as the other suggestion.but to each his own as im sure other things work this is surely the easyest to do.......
Ok, I'm getting ready to try to get this overspray off...I'm going to try the LT cause I already have it so why not? I will try it on a small area and see what happens first. If it works I was wondering if it will remove adhesive as well? I want to take remove those plastic strips off the side of the truck. I know they will come right off with a little heat but there is always some residual adhesive left to remove afterwards. And it is usually a PITA!!