Spark Plug Replacement Questions
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From: High Point, NC
Spark Plug Replacement Questions
I have a 2000 F-150 5.4L and need to change the plugs. Any recommendations on on the best method to do so? Looks as though the fuel rail causes interference and would have to removed. Any suggestions on the best method or tricks?
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I would say that popping the fuel rail off would be easiest, I ended up doing that myself after no combination of extenions and swivels helped. if you do pull the rail be prepared for a few of the o rings on the injectors to come off in the rail which will need to be fished out and put back on the injector before it will seat properly. Getting the o rings out wasn't easy but it was easier than trying to fight the #7 COP bolt with the rail in place.
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you can get the COPS off without removing the rails. you have to swivel the injector caps to one side to get more clearance, but the rails dont move. it will work, but takes time. front two on each side take about 15 minutes each, back ones take 30-40 minutes each. have plenty of swivels, extensions, UV joint , etc. blow out the holes prior to removing the spark plugs. do it when motor is set cold overnight. use grease on the plug caps for reinstall, etc. stick with the factory MOTO craft plugs.
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Originally Posted by steve(ill)
you can get the COPS off without removing the rails.
you have to swivel the injector caps to one side to get more clearance, but the rails dont move.
Last edited by bigmtk; Dec 20, 2006 at 11:29 PM.
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I just replaced the plugs in my 2000 F150 5.4 and It wasn't as bad as I have heard. I didn't need to remove the fuel rail. I unplugged the electrical connector on the injector first and that gave me plenty of room to get to the bolt holding the cop. I used two extension and two swivels on the back two but most with just an extension. I would suggest that you have a 1/4" drive set of sockets and a swivel for removing the cop's bolt. A small step stool or something to stand on with be a big help. This was the first time I changed plugs on a 5.4 I took my time and replaced my PVC valve, air filter and gas filter at the same time and it took me about 3 hours. A note on replacing the fuel filter you will need the 5/16" fuel line tool to release the connector and the fuel does not run out of the lines when disconnected it will come out of the filter itself after the lines are removed.
vanman250
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Originally Posted by vanman250
I just replaced the plugs in my 2000 F150 5.4 and It wasn't as bad as I have heard. I didn't need to remove the fuel rail. I unplugged the electrical connector on the injector first and that gave me plenty of room to get to the bolt holding the cop. I used two extension and two swivels on the back two but most with just an extension. I would suggest that you have a 1/4" drive set of sockets and a swivel for removing the cop's bolt. A small step stool or something to stand on with be a big help. This was the first time I changed plugs on a 5.4 I took my time and replaced my PVC valve, air filter and gas filter at the same time and it took me about 3 hours. A note on replacing the fuel filter you will need the 5/16" fuel line tool to release the connector and the fuel does not run out of the lines when disconnected it will come out of the filter itself after the lines are removed.
vanman250
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i just changed my plugs an 01. i didn't have to use a swivel or remove the fuel rail. i used my 1/8 drive all the cops and my 3/8 drive on the plugs. i did disconnect the injectors to make it easier. the only one that was a real problem was cop on the right under the fuel rail on the drivers side where the (i believe) the regular on the rail is. i used a 7mm wrench for that one. the hole job took me about two and a half hours from opening the hood to closing the hood. it was not as bad as a few have made it out to be. just my two cents.
furrby
furrby
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Originally Posted by furrby
i just changed my plugs an 01. i didn't have to use a swivel or remove the fuel rail. i used my 1/8 drive all the cops and my 3/8 drive on the plugs. i did disconnect the injectors to make it easier. the only one that was a real problem was cop on the right under the fuel rail on the drivers side where the (i believe) the regular on the rail is. i used a 7mm wrench for that one. the hole job took me about two and a half hours from opening the hood to closing the hood. it was not as bad as a few have made it out to be. just my two cents.
furrby
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vanman250
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