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What I'm trying to do is make my truck a more efficient hauler/dailer driver. So far I have done programmer, intake, turbo-back exhaust and of course, the glorious digital gauge monitor. Any ideas of what else I could do to make this baby be more efficient in hauling while not sacrificing much on the reliability? I have thought of an aftermarket turbo and the associated upgrades that go with that, however, my concern is reliability, I want to do this on the safe(I'm not trying to make this baby a big-hipped dragstrip queen), I would rather spend the money to do it right then to regret it later. Any pros and cons to the aftermarket turbo that I should be aware of and/or are there other suggestions that you think I should consider other then the turbo and if so why(both good and bad). Ford techs please chim in since you work on this little darlins 24-7 I would value your opinion on this. Thanks for the help.
I think technically I'm already past that point, however, they have honored the two warranty jobs that I have had done(one was the a/c, the other a power steering leak, caused a godawful sound when turning). I think I have more of a tolerant shop then most, but according to ford standards I think what I have done already pretty much squelches my warranty, I'm already thru the 36k 0 deductible part of my warranty have been for a good bit now, just on the 100 deductible and at the rate that I travel, I have at most another year and 1/2, more then likely just a year before that is gone as well. Plus, what I'm hoping to do with aftermarket parts is have better parts in there(atleast that is how it is in theory).
get rid of the aftermarket intake because it is crap. no aftermarket can compare to the factory setup. you may want to look into getting a 411 gear because it will pay off with the loads.
Ok, what should I be looking for in this aftermarket gearing. The other topic I had on this someone led me to a site, which I understood some of it, but I'm still a neophyte when it comes to this stuff. Exactly how would this gearing help me and what should I be looking for in terms of what to install etc.
a 4.11 gear was a factory option. it will hurt your mileage in stop and go traffic, but on the open rd, it will put alot less strain on the engine because your rpm range will change.
I thought that all the duallies came with the 411 gears besides the tow king (or w/e it was called) which came with the 430's.
For what its worth, for the extra $$ the aftermarket turbo will cost, what would be the possible savings in fuel and how long will it take to re-coup the expense??
ex. (using round numbers with no idea of exact #'s)
new turbo + installation = $1,500
MPG gain = 2 mpg
Roughly 80 extra miles per tank.
@ $2.50 gallon assuming 20 mpg fuel milage you'd be saving $10 a tank. it would take you 150 tanks of fuel to recoup the cost of the add on. Or about 7 years of driving @ 18,000 miles a year...
someone check my math here and yes, I used a 40 gallon tank but unless you want the performance upgrade and its worth it to you, youd be better off just burning the fuel...
I've just about given up on trying to save mpg, it's impossible, I've done fairly well, better then the dodge did, but that isn't my prime concern here. This is strickly for more efficiency in towing then anything else. Diesel, which is more here then 2.50 and I've just had to convince myself that it is the new premium fuel for the 21st century, savings no matter what I do will probably be minimal, it is what it is. Bottom line I'm looking for towing efficiency. I also plan to keep this truck alot longer then I have previous ones, so I also see this as an investment, if I was going to get rid of it when the warranty ran out like I have done with the others, then I would have just done my audio/video upgrades and not have done anything else.
Most guys who have done the mods that you have start loking at doing head studs to help reliability with the higher CP's the tuner/programmer will generate. Nothing worse than a blown head gasket when you are 500 miles form home. I think head studs cost around 500 bucks, plus around 1000-1500 in labor(I haven't done them so I am not positive). Something else you may look at is an oil bypass filter. These are an add-on filter that gets out the really small particles of dirt/debris (1 micron) from the engine oil. I have one made by oil-guard and am happy with it.
The gear swap would net you the most effiency. The gear like BTH said is the only mod that reduces load on the engine, the turbo, tuner, injectors blah blah all increase the output of the engine, the gear just enhances whats already there. It does come with a tradeoff though. I do however differ with BTH, your in town mileage should increase (easier for the engine to get the load moving and will let the trans short shift to a certain extent) and your interstate mileage should decrease (the engine will turn higher rpms with a 4.10 to keep the truck the same speed as that with a 3.73 gear) of course you could slow down to compensate for this slightly, as it is a proven fact with a 3.73 gear anything above 70 (which is 2000 rpm) the mileage falls like a turd in a well.
Most guys who have done the mods that you have start loking at doing head studs to help reliability with the higher CP's the tuner/programmer will generate. Nothing worse than a blown head gasket when you are 500 miles form home. I think head studs cost around 500 bucks, plus around 1000-1500 in labor(I haven't done them so I am not positive). Something else you may look at is an oil bypass filter. These are an add-on filter that gets out the really small particles of dirt/debris (1 micron) from the engine oil. I have one made by oil-guard and am happy with it.
I was thinking of the head studs in conjunction with modified injectors when I did the aftermarket turbo, I would also probably have to get rid of the triple dog and go to a custom tune in order to take into account those changes(which I have been very happy with the triple dog so that does come as a bummer). From what I have seen from the local diesel performance shops round here(bean's diesel down in woodbury being the one that I've been talking to the most about this) your price estimate is pretty close for the studs and installation. I don't know much about the oil bypass filter, I'll have to look into that.
your interstate mileage should decrease (the engine will turn higher rpms with a 4.10 to keep the truck the same speed as that with a 3.73 gear) of course you could slow down to compensate for this slightly, as it is a proven fact with a 3.73 gear anything above 70 (which is 2000 rpm) the mileage falls like a turd in a well.
Actually at 70 I'm about to the second tick mark past the 2, so it's definately more then 2000 rpms with what I've got now, which would would mean it would be considerably higher then that with the new gear, if I'm understanding you correctly(please correct me if I'm wrong about that).
Ok, that would make sense that I had the 4.10 gears when I was getting the higher rpm readings already. What would the 4.30 gear gain for me over the 4.10?