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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 11:03 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by tex25025
Ok, that would make sense that I had the 4.10 gears when I was getting the higher rpm readings already. What would the 4.30 gear gain for me over the 4.10?
Basicly the same thing the 4.10 would gain you over the 3.73. Way more pulling power off the line, which would increase your intown mileage and depending on how much wind drag you have with the load your towing increasing the mileage in the interstate as well. (making the engine work less)
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 06:11 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by mrxlh
Ok maybe we need to clarify a few things here in order to help you better.

1. What are you hauling weight wise?

2. What kind of driving to you do mostly (interstate, or city)?

3. What are you getting for fuel mileage now?

4. How many miles do you have on your truck?

5. What flash does it have in it?
1. Min: 5K Max: close to 14K

2. For the most part interstate: 20 Miles one way
Negligible city driving
When hauling it's anywhere from 15 miles to 683 miles one way.

3. Town or Playing MPG: Around 16
Babying or interstate MPG: High 18, low 19

4. 66k avg around 36-38k a year on it
Quite a few trips to Dallas and Glen Allen for horse shows, an exceptional
amount of horse show events in the state of Tn.

5. That I can't tell you, I have no idea, I know where to check, just haven't.

2 and 4 are just estimations, for exact I'll need to look at my records out in the barn. 3 is from both hand calculations and from what the computer has displayed.
 

Last edited by tex25025; Dec 13, 2006 at 06:18 AM.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 11:47 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Desert_Dude
I thought that all the duallies came with the 411 gears besides the tow king (or w/e it was called) which came with the 430's.

For what its worth, for the extra $$ the aftermarket turbo will cost, what would be the possible savings in fuel and how long will it take to re-coup the expense??

ex. (using round numbers with no idea of exact #'s)

new turbo + installation = $1,500
MPG gain = 2 mpg
Roughly 80 extra miles per tank.
@ $2.50 gallon assuming 20 mpg fuel milage you'd be saving $10 a tank. it would take you 150 tanks of fuel to recoup the cost of the add on. Or about 7 years of driving @ 18,000 miles a year...

someone check my math here and yes, I used a 40 gallon tank but unless you want the performance upgrade and its worth it to you, youd be better off just burning the fuel...
I would estimate that $2.50 a gal is alow measure of afuel price over the next couple years.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 02:29 PM
  #19  
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Maybe I don't understand the question, or mrxlh's reply, but my truck with 3:73's does 68-69 mph @2000 rpm. A 4:11 truck would be in the 62 mph range, or about a 10% decrease. At 70 mph, the 4:11's would be taching about 2250 rpm if you don't play with tire sizes
.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 06:39 PM
  #20  
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Tex what do you get for mileage when towing? Those numbers are pretty respectable empty already, the 4.30 gear would help towing, but you would give up probably close to 1-2mpg unloaded on the interstate. You could very well pick up 3 mpg towing though. You have to decide which is more important to you. That said, this is still the best move for you cause it will do nothing but help the engine, by requiring less output from it. The second best mod would be a very mild mannered sct/xcal towing/mileage tune. (PSD 60L or Matt can set you up with this)
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 07:34 PM
  #21  
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What I don't understand then, if it helps gain mpg when towing, why do you lose when your empty? What are the physics behind it that makes it so you gain when your hauling loads vs. losing when you don't have anything but the truck to move?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 07:51 PM
  #22  
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Its complicated but here is the easiest way to exlpain it that will make sense. You are reducing the ammont of power and boost the engine has to produce to pull the same load with a taller gear. In a better way would you rather try to break some rusted bolts loose with a 1/4" drive 7" long ratchet or a 3/4" drive 26" long handle. Now which would be easier on you for say 8 straight hours a day? It is as basic as a standard transmission, you wouldnt try to start out in 2nd or 3rd gear with a 15,000# load behind you would you? No you would put in in low or granny gear to help get that load moving first. Your rear end gear ratio is the same concept.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 07:59 PM
  #23  
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Similar to riding a 10 speed bike: Much easier to start out in 1st gear than 3rd gear... Less energy expended to move the same load.
 

Last edited by utahtom; Dec 13, 2006 at 08:01 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:09 PM
  #24  
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Ok, that does help it make sense to me. This is the first time that I have really dealt with messing with gearing in the aftermarket sector. It seems that majority of people think I should go with a different gearing and one mentioned headstuds(which I was thinking about in relation to another mod I was thinking about). Is there anything else that I should be thinking about? For those that have come up with suggestions I appreciate them and your patience with someone that doesn't have much knowledge in this type of modification. Thank you.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:31 PM
  #25  
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You are certainly going about this the right way. If I were you, and I was going to put the kind of mods in it you are thinking about, I'd seriously consider having the heads done when you put the aftermarket turbo on. Matt (PSD60)can probably give you more advice on it, but it seems to me that the heads/gaskets are the weakest link, and you are going to be pushing the envelope towing 14K#. The EGT's on my stock '05 (with 4" turbo back exhaust) consistently get into the red when I'm towing 13.5K# on level ground in Florida.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 08:24 AM
  #26  
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What I was told about the headgasket is that if the OEM one didn't have any leaks or other defects, then they would just suggest having the studs put in. I was also told that if I put it in the performance custom tune that I would see about 1600 egts for a few seconds, that does concern me a little bit and I may just have to just get an economy tune and a towing tune done instead of a performance tune.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 08:41 AM
  #27  
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If I was going to spend the money to put head studs in, I think I'd go ahead and have the heads and deack re-milled and "O" ringed at the same time. Especially if I was planning to run a tuner and haul heavy. I just had the "try before you buy" Bullydog put on and am suitably impressed with the difference.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 09:19 AM
  #28  
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The bully dog is the setup I'm running now and I've enjoyed it, which is why I'm a little bummed out that I'll have to go custom and lose it if I do the turbo upgrade and such.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 10:55 AM
  #29  
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unless you go really extreme a turbo upgrade is a waste of time. the vv turbo is a great turbo and feeds air like a mother.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 01:53 PM
  #30  
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the only true problem i have had with the factory turbo is that when I'm on 24 going around nickerjack hauling horses(and I do this commute enough to make this an issue), you have to slow down and then get up speed fairly quickly and the lag kicks in big time there and cars and trucks not haulin anythin have really gotten dangerous when I have to slowly get up speed, thats primarily why i'm pushin for the turbo upgrade, unless you think there are some other upgrades that I could do that would help with dealin with the lag without having to upgrade the turbo itself
 
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