I am going to be rebuilding my 2000 5.4 and need some help. Are there any links or books that would be helpful to read. I have mechanical skills but never did a complete tear down and rebuild so i'm looking for some experience. Any tips or links to things i should read would be appreciated. I had a rod bearing go and that's the reason i'm doing this. So any advice on where to start, engines already out, what machining needs to be done, what to check and how, where to get parts and what i will need? Thanks for any advice

 

if you had a rod bearing go you will most likely need to get the crank machined and the rods resized. If you need to replace the pistons you will need to get the block bored and you will proably get it decked so teh block to head surface is perfectly flat for teh cylinder heads you will proably get them surfaced have a valvejob done possibly get new spring and have new valve seals installed. it is a costly thing to do but i suggest spedning the extra bucks the first time around as shortcuts only cost in the long run. You should be able to get a chilton or haynes manual at your placal parts store they usually have all teh rebuilding information needed in them.

 

These motors are pain to rebuild you have to replace all the rod bolts and head bolts they are stretch to yield bolts. The rods are what as known as fractured rods and I don't know if they can be resized. the head and block surface has to be extremely smooth so pick a machine shop that can get the finishes that are needed. Just as a guide the long blocks for these cost some where between $2500-$3500. So this isn't like rebuilding your basic 302/351 motor.

 

My engine is currently acting up. I turn it on now I step on the gas flame comes out of the exhaust. Im thinking of rebuilding the motor what should I do.

 

It depends on whether or not you intend to keep the truck. If it is a keeper, I would consider swapping your block for a professionally rebuilt engine. If you rebuild it, there are lots of technical issues with a 5.4, but you can solve most of them with the info in the books. If you had/have good compression on all cylinders, you can probably get by with only replacing the crank. It will come with the oversized rod and main bearings. The side bolts on the main bearing caps can be overtightened, crack the block, and ruin the engine. Be sure to number all of the rod caps 1-8 before you take them off. The beveled edge on the big end of the rod must face the front of the engine on reinstall. I don't think these rods can be resized. The mating surfaces are not machined, and each pair is unique and must be reinstalled in the EXACT way and order they were originally. I put a new crank in a 5.4 this way, and it worked out well. The books help but are not detailed enough. Contact me or someone else on the forum who has rebuilt this engine if you run into a problem. You MUST use the oil weight the engine calls for on the filler cap or the same problem could happen again. Never put in heavier oil. It is vital to torque the new spark plugs with light pressure--just snug. The metal inserts are pressed into the aluminum heads, and if you overtighten them, they may get loose and blow out. Then you will have to take the heads to a shop. Good luck.