When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1989 F-250 and It has the speed density system on it. Without converting to Mass Air what kind of intake would work best with my current setup?
Dont Get 1 To Big Or It Will Mess It All Up! Get Your Heads Ported And Polished With A Great Valve Job If You Want More Hp. Get A Good Head Job Get Great Power!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Exhaust is nice, cams are good, heads are better, and an intake is also not a bad idea. The only problem is doing things that dont work with each other. Doing heads with porting and polishing and by vavle job i am assuming larger valves, will be limited by the lower flowing stock intake manifold. Edelbrock makes the performer intake, which is a nice intake that will work with the factory settings and gives you the best overall rpm range. I think the Edelbrock performer heads also work with the factory computer and as for cams, stick to something that is around the stock specs cause this is where the computer can be really affected, unless you want to get a chip custom burnt after you modify your motor. This is costly but will make all your bolt on parts work best in terms of mileage, power, and drivability.
No!! the stock cam sucks large!!! You don't want anything that resembles it. The Edelbrock truck intake is no good either, stay away. The factory intake has lots of HP potential in it, as do the factory heads. Both will support substantially more HP, and build loads more torque down low which is just what a working truck needs.
The Comp Cams 31-255-5 has a SD compatible 114 deg lobe seperation angle, and about as much lift as the factory valve springs can handle. This cam paired with long tube headers on an otherwise stock motor will have you laying patches all over he place. A set of heads and a good intake(GT40 or other car style intakes) on top of this will certainly produce lots more HP, but you'll need bigger injectors to feed the monster at that point, which means you'll also need a mass air conversion and maybe a custom chip burned.
31-255-5
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,000-5,200 RPM
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 206
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 212
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 206 int./212 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 250
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 260
Advertised Duration: 250 int./260 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.462 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.474 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.462 int./0.474 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 114
What i should have said was the stick to the stock cam lobe seperation, and by no means the same durartion or lift. If it was going to be a stock replacement, then why change it at all as there is no performance increase? That is what i am saying. Long tube headers? Is this truck a 4x4, and if so then low hanging long tube headers are an extremely bad idea in the bush, allowing them to get smashed and pinched off, making your motor breath through a drinking straw. I went back to the stock manifolds on my bronco(after smashing the collectors on the header into a pankake) and went with larger tubes tucked up close to the bottum of the truck and got better mileage and torque out of it. I am also running shorty headers on my 92, but i cant say on the performance increase because i didnt do a before and after comparison, but i dont have to worry about wrecking them without some major damage to my truck, and they are also cheaper depending on what brand you get.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.