Hi Everyone,
I have a 1960 F100 and will be dropping in a 302 out of an 85 Crown Victoria.
I will be replacing the throttle body fuel injection intake with a Performer intake and 600cfm Edelbrock carb to simplify things a bit but that brings up the question on fuel pump.
The 302 has an electric fuel pump mounted in the tank. Can I easily mount an electric fuel pump on this system rather than trying to change the timing chain cover to allow for a mechanical pump?

I have never dealt with fuel pumps and do not know which lines are for which purpose. Some have two and some seem to have three lines?

Any advice would be appreciated. With the warmer weather coming I would love to get started on that engine.

Trent

 

I would leave the fuel injection. It is a nice package. I just finished installing a 302 throttle body motor from an '85 MK7 in a '50 F1 which is probably the same engine. The fuel pump is probably the hardest thing about the swap. I ended up with a Ranger tank. Can't say enough good things about fuel injection.

To answer your question, with a carburetor you can use an externally mounted electric pump. You can buy a universal one from AutoZone, Advance, NAPA, Carquest, etc. Should be able to get one for less than $40. You could also take the timing cover off your 302 and add an eccentric to the cam and punch the hole out for, and use a mechanical pump. My '85 302 has the mounting boss for the pump cast in. Once removed, you can take a drill and drill a bunch of small holes, punch it out, and clean it up with a dremmel or die grinder. Since you have 1 line from the tank, if you can get a 2 line pump- that will work for a carburetor. You don't have to have a return line to the tank.

Good luck, and re-consider using the fuel injection.

 

I would like eventually to have fuel injection but the press is on right now to get the truck running and usable. There is just so many other problems with the conversion along with fuel injection. I would run into difficulty moving the electronics and emissions controls, etc and I do not have the time to get into that project just yet. I can keep all the components for later but I figured when and if I went to FI I would get a later model HO engine like an 86 or newer. I would ultimately like to do the FI engine and AOD tranny and getting it all in one package would help.

For now the carbureted intake will get me up and running in very little time. I am switching over to a duraspark ignition as I have the control box and distributor already. The whole engine setup should be very uncomplicated in design for the time being.

I have punched the fuel pump section on another timing chain cover from another engine and could use that but know nothing about adding an eccentric. On the other engine it seems to be integral to the shaft coming from the engine. Are there add on's to vehicles that did not have a mechanical pump? Also the mechanical pump I have has three lines and I am not quite certain which line is for what purpose and if I can just plug the third line off or not.
At this point it just seems easier to add the electric pump with no other modifications.

Thanks.

>I would leave the fuel injection. It is a nice package. I
>just finished installing a 302 throttle body motor from an
>'85 MK7 in a '50 F1 which is probably the same engine. The
>fuel pump is probably the hardest thing about the swap. I
>ended up with a Ranger tank. Can't say enough good things
>about fuel injection.
>
>To answer your question, with a carburetor you can use an
>externally mounted electric pump. You can buy a universal
>one from AutoZone, Advance, NAPA, Carquest, etc. Should be
>able to get one for less than $40. You could also take the
>timing cover off your 302 and add an eccentric to the cam
>and punch the hole out for, and use a mechanical pump. My
>'85 302 has the mounting boss for the pump cast in. Once
>removed, you can take a drill and drill a bunch of small
>holes, punch it out, and clean it up with a dremmel or die
>grinder. Since you have 1 line from the tank, if you can
>get a 2 line pump- that will work for a carburetor. You
>don't have to have a return line to the tank.
>
>Good luck, and re-consider using the fuel injection.

 

I agree with markd, the fuel injection is nice but to your question, yes you can buy an after market electric fuel pump it has 1 line going in and 1 coming out just mount it as close to your tank as possible. If you use an edelbrock performer carb then be sure to buy a fuel pressure regulator the cost is only about $22.00 and set it at 6 to 6 1/2 pounds because that carb wont take much pressure, I have that carb on my 302 in my 54 f100.

 

On a Buick I think the Eccentric is integral to the cam. On a 302 Ford it is bolted to the end of the cam. Just take the bolt out of the end of the cam, put the eccentric on (it has a tab that goes into a hole in the upper timing gear). The eccentric is the only additional part that I know you need assuming you can modify your existing timing cover. You can get it from a core motor at the junkyard or I guess new for any 60s/70s 302. My junkyard gave me one, I just had to take it off. There should be a fuel pump say for a '66 289 Mustang that has 2 lines (1 in, 1 out). You just need to bug your parts guy to look at a few. You might not need a regulator with a stock pump, but it would still be a good idea.

 

this sounds just like the setup we used on my 63. 85 302, AOD, electric fuel pump. Removed TBI, installed 2 barrel carb on the same manifold. Got an electric fuel pump (Autozone $27.99) mounted on the frame rails. Used a Duraspark distributor and box. Have put over 11,000 miles on it since July.

 

How does the AOD work with that setup? Did you have to do anything special for the electronic controls? Did you go with a Ford Carb?

I have an AOD tranny in the garage out of the 85 Crown Vic. It has very high miles but still works and I would eventually like to make use of it. I just have no idea what is involved to make it work without keeping the original FI setup.

>this sounds just like the setup we used on my 63. 85 302,
>AOD, electric fuel pump. Removed TBI, installed 2 barrel
>carb on the same manifold. Got an electric fuel pump
>(Autozone $27.99) mounted on the frame rails. Used a
>Duraspark distributor and box. Have put over 11,000 miles on
>it since July.

 

That AOD is completely mechanical. It has no inputs from the computer. You can remove the VSS generator and use a standard Ford C4/C6 speedometer cable. As far as a kickdown, you will probably have to do some fabricating to the existing one.

 

Mine seemed to have electrical controls going up to either the carb or intake manifold when I pulled it. The only thing I saved off the engine was the serpentine setup and related parts including the water pump and timing chain cover (pulleys didnt match up with my 83 engine). The engine was too beat up to work with and money and space are in short supply. I saved the tranny though it has a broken moulded mount on the tail section. I have the piece that broke off and was hoping it could be repaired. But when I found all the electronics controls to the tranny I figured it would be too much work to make it worth using given the 180,000 odd miles on the tranny.


>That AOD is completely mechanical. It has no inputs from
>the computer. You can remove the VSS generator and use a
>standard Ford C4/C6 speedometer cable. As far as a
>kickdown, you will probably have to do some fabricating to
>the existing one.

 

Left side, more-or-less above the shift pin is a connector for the neutral-safety switch/backup light switch. Left side near the rear is the VSS generator, it can be removed and use a standard speedometer cable in it's place. I think that is all the "electronics" found on that AOD.

 

Mark is right about the wires on an AOD. They are for the neutral safety and backup lights. We had to add about 1 1/2" to the stock 85 Crown Vic kickdown tube to compensate for the difference in throttle position on the Ford 2 barrle carb. The kickdown has to be set just right or you will burn up the transmission ( Don't ask me how I learned this). Start with about 1/4" gap before throttle hits kickdown lever.