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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Clutch adj

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Old May 13, 2002 | 02:13 PM
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58ford
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From: 29 palms usa
Clutch adj

once again i have a question.....

i've got a t-98 4 spd in my 58. I got eerything together, but my clutch won't disenguage. The reason is that I can't seem to find the adjustment specs. Does anyone have or know what it should be adjusted to? Oh and it is a hydro clutch. Thanks again.
 
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Old May 13, 2002 | 10:01 PM
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Kenny
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Clutch adj

Hi,
Adjust the clearance between the slave cylinder push rod adjusting nut and the clutch release lever to no less than 1/4". To prevent damage to the rubber boot, do not let therod turn as the nut is adjusted. once adjusted, tighten the slave cylinder lock nut securely.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=4715&.jpg

Hope this helps.
 
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Old May 14, 2002 | 01:28 PM
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58ford
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From: 29 palms usa
Clutch adj

I'm not sure I understand the pict. Here is the problem....When I took the TRans off the engine the old throwout bearing had a huge spring behind it, that had been thrashed. I had never seen anything like this before so I called around and no one had heard of uit either. And on top of that trhe book calls for a return spring that hooks into the release lever. So my other question is where does the return spring hook to or do i even really need it? there is a braket that comes off the frame directly across from the dipstick. That is where I have it hooked to now but it seems to want to try and pull the release lever off the mount. I'm in a bind!!!!
 
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Old May 14, 2002 | 03:28 PM
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Clutch adj

Hi 58ford,
O.k., lets try to break this down.

The above picture is a cutaway view of your slave cylinder. the space between the two arrows labeled "Measure this distance" is where you should have no less than 1/4" (spec from shop manual) to properly adjust the clutch.

There should be no spring behind the throw out bearing. This sounds like something that someone had added on. Since the bearing spins, the spring would no doubt get trashed.

You do need the retracting spring. The retracting spring helps to keep the release lever fully foward, and helps prevent the same effect as if you were to "ride" the clutch.

There is supposed to be a bracket bolted to the bell housing just below and in front of the slave cylinder itself. this bracket is for the retracting spring.


As for the clutch not dis-engaging......

I'm not sure what you've already checked but the first thing I would check is that the slave cylinder is in good working order, fluid level full in resovoir, no air in the system, and no leaks or "blow by". These things will effect the "throw" of the pushrod, thereby won't dis-engage your clutch

Check that your clutch pedal total travel is adjusted correctly. The clutch pedal should be even with the brake pedal when fully released. This can be adjusted by locating the clutch pedal bumper.

You didn't mention if you replaced the clutch or not. It says in the shop manual that friction-lag requirements are built in to match the engine. Clutches for the 6 cyl. and V-8 engines should not be interchanged.

I hope that some of this may help you.







 
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Old May 14, 2002 | 05:53 PM
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Clutch adj

 
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