is there any clutch adjustment on a 88 f250? my clutch dosent slip at all but the only pedal i have is near the floor, and the pedal won't return all the way.

 

the clutch is hydrolic if i remember right, there is no adjusting it. have you checked the fluid level?if so and it isnt low or empty and your pedal isnt coming all the way back up it is most likely the clutch master cylinder.

 

well i heard that some of the trucks had adjustments so i was wondering if mine had any on the rod going to the master...

thanks

 

Not sure how cold it is down there yet, but my internal slave starts to leak in the winter....The o-ring gets stiff in lets in some air, so I got my clutch engaging just off the floor, sometimes not at all. So I add some fluyid an am good for a day or so...

 

Aftermarket master cylinders have an adjustable pushrod.

You might check and see if the plastic retainer clip in the pushrod eye is serviceable and also that the firewall is solid where the M/C mounts.

These are both common issues.

 

I just changed my clutch master cylinder over the weekend because I was having similar problems. Now that I have it in, I cannot get any clutch at all. I tried bleeding the slave cylinder but it has not let a lot of fluid through. The change out for the clutch master cylinder was a bit tricky due to its location but it went OK. I had to have my son hold the reinforcement plate in place so I could get the bolts and rod-end of the cylinder through the firewall. Does any one have any advise as to bleeding these animals down? I am hung up on this. No clutch and starts without depressing clutch. I know the switch in in correctly...............

 

Now that I think about it. There is a threaded section on the pushrod eye end of the rod. Maybe that can be adjusted. That could actually be what my problem is. I might not be getting enough travel from the rod and I am not pushing enough fluid through the cylinder. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. The damn thing came with no paperwork so I am flying blind here.......

 

PauL3861,
Shouldn't start without depressing clutch. !?!?!?
Once the M/C is bolted to the firewall, just back out the pushrod until it snaps onto the bellcrank of the pedal shaft.

 

I got that all hooked up. I think that I need to back the push-rod off so it extends the throw of the rod itself. There was about 2.5 inches of thread showing on the old one. The new one is run all the way in. I think this is why she is starting without having the clutch depressed. The push-rod has a machined taper to its diameter about half way down. Tt goes from approximately 5/16 to 3/16 within the confines of the clutch switch. I think by adjusting it the clutch master cylinder will push more fluid and the switch will function properly...........Just a guess but its a better theory than the (NO DIRECTIONS) that came with it. I will have to wait until tomorrow to tinker with it.................