Sorry if this question has already been asked but for some reason I'm not allowed to use the search function.

I am considering switching to a synthetic for my 5.4 liter F-150. I know mobil1 is a good oil but I came across this stuff called royal purple. It got me interested. Anybody have any experience with this suff good or bad? Thanks for any help

 

Great oil. Run the Royal Purple 5w30, and you'll be fine. I have used 5w30 Royal Purple in my Aerostar van (3.0 V6), 140K, excellent results. Peak MPG, easy starting. No leaks or drips, and the van never used a drop of oil between oil changes, with Royal Purple. Good stuff.

Ed

 

I run it in my race engine, and my transmissions and like the stuff, high heat high abuse and at the end of the season my bearings still look good. I have had my oil temps in excess of 250deg and the stuff didn't break down.
And Royal Purple is a sponsor of FTE too.

 

thanks guys, I dont have a base to compare to but could you tell me if $6.50 a quart is reasonable for this stuff?

Also I noticed that you recommend the 5W-30, is this alright to do? My manual says to run the 5W-20 and I couldnt find reference to anything else. Thanks again.

 

I would stick with what the manual says.

- Chris

 

RP is just a synthetic with dye in it. Save your money and go with a more common oil like Mobil1 or AMSOIL. When I was in the drilling business we used many different types of oil looking for something that wouldn't quickly break down in our drive boxes. PR was low on the endurance list. It was a total waste of money to say the least. AMSOIL and M1 yielded higher results for less $.

 

I have a friend who has used RP in his vehicles for several years and is happy, though he has never had an oil analysis run. I used Amsoil 5W-30 in my old '85 F150 (4.9L in-line 300) for a couple of years, and saw a sustained increase in mileage of a least 1.5 MPG over what I had been seeing with Mobil 1. I, too, though, never had an oil analysis run.

I would suggest getting an oil analysis, after reading dozens of threads on the issue here, in the following fashion:

- buy 3 oil sample/test kits (Blackstone labs is highly recommended here, but there are others as well)
- sample your existing oil and have an analysis for the sake of future comparisons
- sample your choice of synthetic, new, and get a true "baseline" analysis on the oil itself while still unused
- use your new oil and sample again at 3000 miles for the third analysis to see how it comapres with your other two results (this analysis will also tell you how much longer you can probably run the oil before having to change it)

The above is the approach I am getting ready to follow as I convert whatever came in my "new" 2002 F250 7.3L Turbo Powerstroke Diesel. I've run about 4K miles since purchasing, and am waiting on me chosen synthetic to arrive before sampling the existing condition and the new oil's base condition. I am also isntalling an OilGuard bypass filtration system for enhanced oil cleanliness in the engine.

Hope this helps.

 

mlazuka, How many miles do you drive a year? Are you doing mostly short trips, or longer commutes? If you do more miles and have regular longer commutes, I recommend Redline 5w20 which can be gotten for about $9 a quart and will run a long OCI. You should be able to run it 10,000 miles and one year. For 5w20 applications I like Redline because it has the HTHS viscosity (which is what the viscosity drops to in the bearings where it is under High Temp and High Sheer) of most other 10w30 oils.

 

"RP is just a synthetic with dye in it. Save your money and go with a more common oil like Mobil1 or AMSOIL. When I was in the drilling business we used many different types of oil looking for something that wouldn't quickly break down in our drive boxes. PR was low on the endurance list. It was a total waste of money to say the least. AMSOIL and M1 yielded higher results for less $."

I'm not sure how Royal Purple and Mobil 1 could be that much different as they are made from the same base stock from the exact same plant.

 

Being made from the same base stock and from the same plant doesn't mean crap about what they put in it.

Seriously though, get some real world experience with harsh conditions and see for yourself.

 

I believe what I put my motor through would be considered real world harsh conditions, I shift a big block stroker at 7400 rpm go through the finish line at close to 8000 rpms, run with the water temp hitting 230, and the oil temp pushing or exceeding 260 on occasion. I do all this while running in a mud pit (lots of dirt possible) and run nothing but an exhaust evac system. So is that harsh enough for you? regular dino oils turn to water (not really but the consistancy of water I am sure you know what I mean) in one day of racing and actually don't last the entire day. Mobil 1 works ok but usually survives max 2 days racing, I have RP in my motor right now that has run 6 days of racing and is still in decent shape without being watered down, my cold oil preasure at idle is 72 on this oil (just started the truck this weekend getting it ready to store for the winter) my cold oil pressure when the motor was new was 74psi, my hot oil pressure at idle right now is 40, when new engine and oil was 45, so my bearings are apparently not hurt. I did replace my bearings last year even though after one full race season they still looked good using RP and I can say that is the first time in the past 5 yrs that I have had a set of bearings not be totally shot at the end of a season, it's coincidently the first season I ran RP oil must just have gotten lucky and got some good bearings.

 

Excellent testimonial with well-communicated and relevant details. Points to you, Monster (even though i don't think that OSin86 was necessarily directing his comments towards you).

 

I agree. Royal Purple may have their trademark dye in it, but it still is a quality oil, once the dye disappears. It's not like it's some cheap SB Non detergent oil with a purple dye.

There is plenty of real life racing experience with Royal Purple, to use this oil in any healthy street machine engine! Red Line, Torco are other quality oils, and I'd rate Royal Purple right with them as well.
Ed

 

LOL, ya I never directed anything towards Monster but since he's directing towards me I'll just add that we obviously saw different results. Not supprising due to two completely different beasts. Also for those that may need to re-read what I wrote (not calling anyone out) I still think it's good oil but nothing worth spending the extra money on. You could save a lot of money simply adding die to M1.

 

OS, it wasn't really directed as a slam at you, but it was answering your call for real world is all. Hope you didn't take it as an offense just giving the results I see, and what type of abuse I put it through. I was asked privately (due to this thread) if I had thought about trying other synthetics, and the answer is basically no in this engine. I have too much money invested in these race engines to experiment with stuff that can kill them, so I stay with an oil that I know is working.