The main question I have ,Was a micrometer used in this rebuild by some THAT HAS PLENTY OF PRIOR EXPERINECE USING IT?

 

This was My frist time replacing main bearings in a motor! So my response is we did NOT use a MICROMETER! used them in previous jobs!!not on a motor! the plasticgage test was with in specs. that came with the CRANK! are there more than one type of MICOEMETERs!?

 

So you didnt check the cylinders or pistons or crank/cam at all to be sure they were within the size requirements for your bearings etc? Why not?

 

are the main caps in order 1,2,3,4 etc? and are they the factory ones for that block?
and are they pointing in the right direction?

 

THEFARELANRMAN--NO! HEMIEATER--yes! The cyclinders where re honed! the pistions were reringed! Rod bearings are stock replacements, My buddy say the bearings came with crank! I previously stated that the crank bearings where bought seperate! Sorry!

 

try some different bearings....

 

I'll have my buddy try that! the motor is at his house!

 

I think you said you decided not to install new cam bearings. If the block was hot-tanked, those old cam bearings will be ruined.

On some rebuild kits, you have to file the rings to get the proper end gap. Did you measure the ring end gap prior to installation?

After installing a crank, I always give it a spin to check the rotating torque. I also spin the rotating assembly after the rods and pistons are installed, and again after the cam and lifters are installed. If something is wrong, I know it then, and not after I've tried to fire it up.

In any case, I'd reccommend putting the engine back on the stand, and finding the problem.

 

390FE, we did that twice I think! the Idea was if we spun the crank enough that it would free up some so the starter could take over! but that never happened! Thanks again!!

 

In any case, I'd reccommend putting the engine back on the stand, and finding the problem.

 

Yep it's back on the stand and waiting 4 us! we're doing research on this and seeing what we come with/did wrong! I'm trying too keep my brother on the 302 build! He's talking about swaping a budget 460/with a c6! he's are already got 1500.00 stuck in this motor!

 

Good luck with that. The 302, once straightened out should last long enough to rebuild a 460. And just think about all the gas he'll save.

 

When I was rebuilding my 302 a while back I had a similar problem. I had installed all the pistons on one side of the engine keeping all the pistons orientated with the notch pointing towards the left (front of engine). When I went over to other side of the engine I started installing the next two pistons with the notch pointing towards the left again, but now they were pointing to the rear of the engine. This had made the crank very hard to turn, so I knew something was wrong. I realized I had installed the pistons 180 degrees out of position, so I removed them and then reinstalled them correctly and everything rotated easily again. One other possibility, from your posts I take it you bought either a new remanufactured crank or new crank, With remanufactured cranks they usally turn them to resurface them and they also supply both the rod and main bearings along with the crank of the proper size that match to amount they turned down the rod and main bearing surfaces. The remanufactured crank I bought had the main and rod surfaces turned down 0.010" each and they gave me both main and rod bearings at 0.010" oversized to match the crank. In your posts you said you had to buy your own main bearings, are you sure you bought the correct size. For that matter you can't always trust what the box says and you need to check everything as you go along. I would pull the engine all apart and check all the bearings to make sure they are the right size and mike all the bearing surfaces to double check there sizes as well. When installing the crank do as 390fe said and install the main caps one by one and check the free rotation of the crank as you go and if you can freely rotate the crank after all the main caps have been installed then the problem is not the main bearings. Do the same sort of thing with the rod/pistons, where after installing make sure you can freely rotate the crank. You will have more resistance due to the new rings sliding on the honed piston walls. During the assembly use plastigage to check all your clearances and also check that the new rings have been gapped properly by instaaling them in the piston bore and measuring their gaps. Also you said you are reusing your old pistons correct, so make sure the ring lands of the pistons are clean so that the rings seat correctly.
Good luck with your rebuild and let us know what you find to be the problem.

Jim

 

I thought I already posted all that information Cujo8

 

I just got of the phone with my friend! He said he has pined it too the crank or block! he's disconnected the rods from the crank and it spins freely and when he puts he the final torque value of 70 ft lbs the crank locks up! tomorrow I'm going over their too to put a different 5.0 block in it, too get rolling again for storage until spring! My brother is also going for the 460 swap! so thats going to be fun! May I add that the block sat with the old crank in it until we put the reman in. Oh it's defently a reman! and the main bearing did come with!! We're going too put all the new stuff in a different motor prob. in the spring! Thanks again for all ur replys'