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I about give up on EFI,been having probloms with this 88 F-150 6cly,
To start with it seemed it had fuel probloms so I replaced the pumps,then the plugs and wires,then the relays after all that it still acting like it's not getting fuel and top top it off it's blowing black soot/smoke it leaves it on the ground.
Any idea what the soot is from or what the cause is?
All the cars and trucks I owned the EFI one's were the biggest problom,this is the last EFI I ever buy or if I get another EFI it gets ripped out and a carb eng gets put in,speaking of such how big of a problom is it to swap out the EFI I have for a Ford crate engine?
I have the feeling the soot is telling me the engine is shot.
Don't know if this will help, but i had a '91 300ci straight 6 that started running real bad. It was running real rich, blowing black smoke. so i took it to a local shop and had them put it on the computer. He said the codes were all over the place, nothing was making sense. He said try a new engine computer. Put one on from autozone and everything went back to normal. Drove it another 100,000 miles.
Crimescene, check for codes before you do anything else.
If the computer is bad, it's not going to give out a code "i'm bad replace me".
When my 91's comp. went bad, it was throwing out bad codes for stuff that was in perfect operation. If i would have just relied on the "bad" codes, i would have replaced all the sensors and such and still had a bad computer.
Just something to keep in mind.
If you learn some of the tips and tricks to EFI (and have a reasonably sound engine to begin with), you will actually work on an EFI LESS and more quickly than a carbed setup.
Go to www.fordfuelinjection.com and read up. Black smoke/soot is too much gas. It could be a bad computer, bad fuel pressure regulator or bad O<sub>2</sub> sensor.
Personally, I LIKE my EFI--in the nearly 10 years that I have owned Ford EFI trucks, they have NEVER failed to start due to the injection system, even when one had no compression in the #8 cylinder. I can't say that about the carbed Chevy I had for 9 months--it left me sitting several times. Carbs don't tell you what's wrong with them, computers can much of the time--learn to use them and they are your friend.
The codes just say that some of the sensors are the "greater then" 4.6 volts, 4.81 volts ect ect message,it is odd that it does not toss out the fuel pump problom with the rear tank,that one is bad for a fact,the one other wield problom is it will only do KOEO self test with a test light nothing elese will work to test it.
Well I guess I can try a new comp,I cannot afford to get it to a garage like I thought I could,I hope I can return the comp if thats not it,the other stuff I replaced was no biggie being as it's all general maint stuff that would have to be done anyway.
As far as the sensors I did remove some of them and clean them up not that it would fix them if there bad but I cannot see how 1 bad sensor would make the truck toss out black soot and stall it out when I try to get going.
I'll post something if I get it fixed,might help someone down the road if they have the same problom.
Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. If it's wet with gas the FPR is bad--when they go bad, they let the fuel pressure run too high (which means the injectors will dump too much fuel into the cylinders).
The first thing I would do is pull neg. cable from battery for 20 min. to reset puter.
The next thing I would check is the collant temp sensor. If its way out it will dump alot of fuel thinking it is in the cold start mode. (Not temp sender)
Hope this helps.
CrimeScene,
Go on the PA. club site and see if there is a member that might be close to you. I f you ask them nicely, maybe one of them will have a truck similar to yours and let you "borrow" their 'puter for testing to see if that is the problem before you dump the money for a new one. Never hurts to ask!~
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