inner tie rod end

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Nov 16, 2006 | 07:42 AM

Torsen Rick

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From: Rochester, NY

inner tie rod end

I'm going to take a stab at replacing a worn inner tie rod end on my van ('93 AWD). Are there any tips or problems to watch for?

Nov 16, 2006 | 11:46 AM

aerocolorado

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The large gland nut securing the inner tie rod to the rack has a 1/8" soft rivet securing the nut that must be removed. It is easily pried out with small chisel/screwdriver. Finding a replacement is harded. I wound up using a modified copper rivet in its place but I imagine a small, self tapping screw would work as well.

The gland nut can be loosened with large Channel-Lok pliers or similarly large adjustable wrench. Otherwise, it is a pretty straight forward replacement with no surprises. Access on the E-4WD version is tight but do-able. Might need a new boot clamp for the inner side.

Nov 16, 2006 | 07:23 PM

DOUG5G

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jun 2003

Posts: 208

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From: Norfolk VA

When I replaced mine the new tie rod came with the new rivet. Just ask your parts store to check the different ones they have.

Nov 16, 2006 | 10:52 PM

JanRichter

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Quote:

Originally Posted by aerocolorado

The gland nut can be loosened with large Channel-Lok pliers or similarly large adjustable wrench. Otherwise, it is a pretty straight forward replacement with no surprises. Access on the E-4WD version is tight but do-able. Might need a new boot clamp for the inner side.

That nut is 1 and 5/16 inch AF. Parts chains like AutoZone (formerly Chiefs) have a free loaner tool. It is a very long socket that goes over the tie rod after it has been unscrewed from the outer tie rod end.

After the tie rod is removed you may want to add some grease to the steering rack, as there is only a pitifully small amount in there. As I recall, grease can only be added from the driver's side, as the other side of the rack has a circular scraper attached to the end.

For grease compatibility issues see this chart

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/greasechart.htm

or just rub the greases together to ensure they mix together without separating.

Jan Richter

Nov 17, 2006 | 12:10 AM

Pablo-UA

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From: Kiev, Ukraine

I used a big hummer to put the tie rod end out.
Position was marked by paint.

Nov 17, 2006 | 07:23 AM

Torsen Rick

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From: Rochester, NY

I swapped it out last night. I was able to get at it from the front with an open-end wrench. Regarding the rivet, the new TRW-branded tie rod I bought didn't use one. There was a note enclosed with it that stated that Ford has phased out the use of the retaining rivet and gave a torque spec that the nut end should be tightened to. All in all, it wasn't too bad of a job. Easier then it was on my old Escort, where access was pretty limited due to the rack being on the firewall.

Nov 17, 2006 | 07:50 AM

VanGo

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Joined: Apr 2005

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From: Wichita

Did you have to count threads like the outers to maintain your alignment? How did you determine it was bad? I replaced both worn outers. I wonder if the inners are bad also.

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Nov 17, 2006 | 08:02 AM

Torsen Rick

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From: Rochester, NY

You don't count threads, you thread it on till it stops and then bring it up to torque. You wouldn't be able to do that some arbitrary distance out. As far as the alignment goes, you can assume that you'll have to reset the toe adjustment when you're done. I did a quick (not very accurate) setting while I still had it on the lift to get it close. Since I only replaced one tie rod, I can assume that the other side is good and only have to monkey with the toe adjustment on the one side to get it back to normal. That should be easy enough to reset with strings or a toe gauge.

I determined it was bad by checking for play with the wheel on, like you would for an outer tie rod end. When I found the slop, I then felt for where the movement was - between the outer tie rod end and spindle or between the tie rod itself and the rack.

In this case, when tire/wheel/spindle moved back and forth, the tie rod moved with it. That means the play is on the inner end. If it were the outer end, the tie rod would've remained stationary when the wheel/spindle moved.

Last edited by Torsen Rick; Nov 17, 2006 at 08:08 AM.