I've been looking through alot of past threads for the answer but can't find what I'm looking for. I want to flush out my coolant system and wondering what the proper way was to do it. Or is it worth it to just take it to a dealer and have them do it? Also I'm thinking of installing a Dieselsite coolant filtration system. I've seen what Beachbumcook did with his as far as cutting it open and inspecting it and seeing what a difference it really can make. How easy is it to install this? I only have 48k miles on my truck but I looking inside the tank yesterday and it suprised me at how much dirt and whatnot there was in it. BTW I have an 2004 F250 6.0L CC SB 4x4.

 

Here is what I did....

1) Look in manual for capacity of cooling system. Divide by 2 and this is how many quarts (gallons) you need of coolant for a 50/50% mix. Buy the Ford Premium Gold/Long Life coolant (factory fill)!!!

2) Buy 15 gallons of distilled water (for flushing and refilling) - Cost is about $1.00/gallon

3) Loosen lower radiator hose at radiator and drain.

4) Refill overflow tank with distilled water until full and drive truck until hot and thermostat opens.

5) Repeat steps #3 and #4 about 5 times. Each time you get a little more of the old coolant out and eventually you will have 100% distilled water in your system.

6) After the 4th or 5th time, reconnect lower radiator hose.

7) This is where (time) to install dieselsite coolant filter as any loss of "water" is just that and system is non-pressureized. Install coolant filter per instructions and it takes about 1 hour. I installed mine on a Saturday and Dieselsite was open and answered the phone when I called with a question.

8) Now add the amount of coolant that equals 50% concentration to your overflow tank (your motor only has about 40% distilled water in it right now).

9) Add distilled water until full (top off).

10) Start truck and let idle for a minute or two to circulate (top off as needed).

11) Drive truck until hot and thermostate opens... you are trying to get the air out of the system... recheck after 15 - 20 minutes of driving.

12) Keep topping off with distilled water as needed and keep an eye on coolant level in case air bubbles work free and level goes down slightly. The addition of the coolant filter is about a quart... so if you added just a touch more coolant you are still within the 50% - 60% coolant concentration.

13) Sit back... relax... and drink a beer.... your done!!!!

I change my coolant every 50,000 miles even though I am using 100% distilled water.... even though the manual states 100,000.... I like the piece of mind. Total cost was around $55.00 and I got a 100% flush and refill!!!

Hope this helps... if you have more questions... PM me.

The coolant filter is a must have and as you mentioned in your post above... a picture is worth a 1,000 words of the benefits of installing.

Jeff

 

Not meaning to hijack thread But question for Jeff.. I just ordered a dieselsite filter for my truck.. Do you have to completely drain the cooling system to install it?? Or are you basically just draining the overflow tank???

FWIW I bought the kit.Plus the SS shutoff valves, plus 3 extra filters... Your picks and others convinced me..

Im not in need of a flush at thins point.. Im at 50K and coolant still looks good..

 

Do not need to drain the system to add the by-pass coolant filter.

Start with a cold motor since your hands will have to fit into the tight area by the oil filler tube and cut into the large heater hose (cold is better than hot)!!

1) Lay out all your parts.

2) Work backwards... start by tee-ing in the return line into the over-flow tank.

3) Hook up your filter head assembly, ball valves and filter and install. Use teflon tape for all threaded connections. I used thread lock on the bracket, but others have used lock-washers (I did not have any at the time).

4) Since they give you just enough hose that has to be cut, hopefully you didn't make the return line excessive?

5) Now the final cut and hook-up is the line from the heater hose to the inlet side of the filter housing. Try and eyeball where the large "T" will go and how it will hang with weight on it. Try to pick a spot that you can reach easily and that once connected the hose will not rub on the turbo tube or oil filler neck (or any sharp areas). Once you make the cut into the heater line you are committed!!! This is why I leave this for last (I can still drive my truck to the auto-parts store if I screw any of the prior steps up).

6) Cut into the heater hose and yes, you will loose coolant, but install the clamps and "T" and hose to filter to stop the flow and then you can tighten the clamps.

7) Some have found using a larger diameter hose to "go over" the hose you just installed to protect against rubbing. I slit a larger hose and installed over it and use very small zip-ties to hold in place.

8) Tighten everything down... start motor with heater on high to get max coolant movement and top off overflow tank with 50/50% coolant and water depending on how much you lost.

I would change your first filter after 30 days if you drive quite a bit... since the more you drive the more flow it can/does filter. You may want to loosen what sediment is in the overflow tank so it can circulate and bet trapped by the filter. Keep an eye on the bubbles/flow you will see in the overflow tank from the return line... no flow... filter is plugged!!!

Good luck,

 

my co-worker just put one on his Truck, and was showing it to me today. Think i'll look into getting one for myself.

 

WARNING....

In post #2 above (step $6) the lower radiator hose gets reconnected after each drain... then refill... then drive... then disconnect to drain... the re-connect to refill...

Do 4 or 5 times (must reconnect to run motor).

Sorry for any confusion...

 

Thanks a ton Jeff.. My system wont be here untill friday.. Ive done more than a few cooling system mods so I know all about the hot coolant. OUCH.. Yeah I bought 3 extra filters BC I put a lot of miles on here per week.. I figured the first one would last about 20 days based on what Ive seen from yours and others.. Ive got spools of coolant hose left over from previous projects. So if I cut it too short I should be covered... Im pretty **** when it comes to laying out things befre making a cut.. Im sure Ill measure 47 times..LOL

Ill be installing the Bilsteins this weekend as well..and some urethane sway bar mounts.. After my Ball Joint replacement last week Im on a kick to get the suspension working better..

Thanks again for the help...

 

Is there any added value to installing one of those Tee's in the heater hose line and back flushing the system with a garden hose before doing the distilled water flush and fill?

 

Powderb28: the statement about the coolant being dirty with alot of what not floating around in it is not a good sign. Your coolant should not be dirty at all and there should not be anything floating around in it. How many miles on the truck?

 

That whatnot is usually casting sand and nitrate drop out and is extremely common to the 6.0 and many other motors. It affects the 6.0 more than other engines due to the narrow cooling passages in the oil cooler thus overheating the egr cooler.

 

Remove the t-stat and you won't have to wait for the t-stat to open in between flushes.