Danger – Dark Side project discussion. Light Siders be warned.

As mentioned in a couple of places recently in this forum, I’ve decided to go the psudo-fleetside or combination route for the bed on my 54. That is, use a fleetside box in a step side manner. In the belief /knowledge that others are doing the same, I’ve started this thread to enable anyone that’s interested to offer advise or ask questions. (I’ve also started a gallery for this project as well)

After looking at Rangers, S10s and various other beds, I decided upon using a mid- 90s ch*vy box from a Silverado or Sierra. While all specific alternatives mentioned here seem to fit the critical requirements –

- center of wheel well approx. 40 inches from front of box.
- floor of bed about 19 inches from bed top
- side profile is similar to 54 cab profile

the full sized Chevy short box has a couple more pluses that the others don’t. I found the lines of the S10 box very pleasing, but the design or feature detail near the bottom (the lower qtr panel – in front of and behind the wheel well) is raised or protrudes out from the body. This is pretty much common on almost all truck beds EXCEPT the Silverado/Sierra from the mid-90s. On this bed, the design is recessed into the side wall of the bed. This will make it very simple to fill it and therefore end up with a smooth outer side wall – matching the side profile of the 54 cab.

Much of this is subjective - a matter of personal taste, so if you disagree with anything I am saying, no problem.

If you grab the short box or the box used on the extended cabs, you’ll have a 6.5 ft box, which is perfect for this project.

BTW – I looked at the semi-stepside bed that ch*vy used in the mid 90s and while I feel it looks beautiful on a 55-57 Ch*vy pick up, I don’t feel the fenders work on a 53-56 Ford……

My measurements tell me that to have approx. 7 inches of stock fender on each side, I need to cut the box down to a maximum width of 60 inches. BTW – this will give me a floor width on the inside of the bed of about 48 inches – within an inch of the stock bed inside width.

At this point (the morning of 11/12/06) the box has been cut down and welded back together. We’re bringing it home today to (hopefully) drop in place.

After that, I’ll play around with it at home for a month or two;

- fitting patches for the stake pockets
- fitting patches for those feature/detail recesses discussed above
- fitting a patch in place of the gas filler door
- trimming back the stock wheel well lip
- replacing the wheel tubs and patching the floor
- deciding whether to fit smooth inner side walls
- figuring how to finish off the inner edges to accept a wood floor

Cutting the box down was fairly easy. Only took us about 4 hours. All that other stuff including scribing the stock fenders to be cut, will take some time though…….

 

There isn't much stock sheetmetal left on your truck. Different grill, dash, chopped top and now a different box. Wish I had good body work skills.

 

A very interesting topic, Fergie. I'll watch this with great interest.

The lines of the bed are great with the Effie cab. I might consider just laying the new wood bed over the steel floor. The tail lights look nice. How do you plan to take 16" out of the tailgate (with the handle in the middle of it)? That split line might look wierd. Good thing you son knows how to weld.

Your truck is gonna look awsome!!! Darkside rules!!!

 

Nathan,

I'm just the idea man and the grunt on this project. Ramsay is the bodyman... If it wasn't for his excellant welding skills and steadily progress bodywork skills, I wouldn't be atempting half of this....

Randy,

We're undecided on the tailgate. Would love to go with a very simple, body coloured push button but haven't done any research yet on what might fill the bill....

Another idea would be invisible remote powered mechanism (like a shaved door).....

Thought about remounting the stock (Ch*vy) latch mechanism about one foot off the passenger edge of the tailgate but the young lad thinks it would look like crap.

Thought about using those barrel latches that fit the stock F100 tailgate, but would be a big pain to mount in the modern tailgate....

Slightly off topic - the old Ford V8 script that you see on some tailgates....wish I could find that in a sheet metal stamping....Not sure how big they are but would love to patch it into the center of the tailgate..... However, the source would need to be cheap...like cutting it out of an old tailgate that's too crapped out to restore.......

 

Fergie -

I use solenoids and a latch mechanism I made to open my shaved tailgate. I like it.

I think the Ford script would look awsome. You'll probably have to find a trashed tailgate to get it. I patched the block letter "FORD" into my gate by welding it. If I did it over, I would definitely bond it in with a doubler. No shrinkage and a perfect fit.

 

I think that bed will look real good. Like the way the fenders will blend in at the bottom. If that's how your going to do yours.. And also like the way the top turned out not to much off but just enough to make a difference, Great Job.

 

Interesting project. I just want to follow along as you progress. I might accidentally learn something.

 

Your trying to accomplish something like this but with Ford fenders instead of chevy ones?

 

Nathan,

Exactly.

 

Fergie,

I just love reading your posts and I can't wait to see how this all turns out. I think it will look absolutely fantastic!

What did you use to cut the bed apart? It looks like you have a nice straight line, did you use some kind of fence or what? I am facing something similar. I have a complete bed floor and front panel from a 2005 GMC that will be gettign cut down to fit between my bedsides.......

I agree with your thoughts on finding the Ford script for the tailgate. My tailgate is pretty hammered both on the top and bottom rails. I had considered using a late model stepside tailgate and splicing in my center section. I might try fabbing my own tailgate using the script section from my original.

Good luck with it, its looking great
Bobby

 

Bobby,

I just made a pattern (so to speak) of poster board about 5 ft long and exactly 16 inches wide. Used that find the best spot to mark the lines and then cut it apart using my 4.5" angle grinder with a cut off wheel (2 actually).

I'm pretty good with a cut off wheel. When they hold the World Championships for cutting things apart with 4.5" grinders, I expect to finish in the top 5.

(It's what I took the roof off with also)

It's not so much the " Ford" script I'm thinking of , it's the fancy " V8 " script that I have in mind....... "The old fancy " Ford " script would be my 2nd choice....

I cut the whole bed from inside leaving only the top inch of the front panel and the last 2 inches of the bed. Flipped it over and braced up the floor and then finished cutting through the cross-members and the bits not previously done.

BTW - The bed is home and sitting on the truck now. Need to take about an inch off each of the middle cross-member to drop down into the kick up in the frame and then need to trim about 2 inches off each end of the rear cross-member to drop down on the rear shackles. Expect to have to shim up the bed by about 1 to 3 inches using square metal tubing (in a few weeks).

Planning a road trip hopefully this weekend to grab a couple of new (to me) rear fenders down near Toronto ......Wanna get them before the crappy weather comes.....

Later,

 

Fergie,

Thanks. On the bed floor I'm messing with I'll have to cut some off of either side. I have the bed floor with the front panel and wheel wells still attached, the bedsides have been removed. It should be fairly easy to cut up. I was figuring on using a cut off wheel in and angle grinder. Glad to hear that it worked so well for you.

For the Ford script;
You might try contacting Mack Hills (https://www.mackhils.com/mack_produc...?CategoryNo=20) they stamp out tailgates from Model A's up through the 70's. Maybe you could talk them into doing a one off of just the center section where the script is. Or maybe you will get lucky and they will have one laying about the shop

Can't wait to see how it will look on the truck
Bobby

 

I would not lay wood over a solid steel bed floor. It would hold moisture against the underside of the wood preventing it from drying out, and would warp and rot in short order.I'd cut out the floor except for a flange around the edges and add a couple stiffener ribs across to bolt the boards to.

 

Ax,

That’s pretty much what I was thinking regarding the floor………

Bobby,

Thanks for thank link. I’ll try them

 

Tail lights? You aren't going to leave stock chevy lights only to have a ford script tail gate two inches away are you?

Should be cool regardless and the fact that you are using ford fenders instead of a whole stepside makes a world of difference in the looks department. -4speed