brake question

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Nov 8, 2006 | 06:06 AM

steve100

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5th Wheeling

Joined: Aug 2006

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brake question

Goood morning/ i used a 1974 booster and master cylinder in my disk brake conversion. drilled a new hole about 3/4 inch from the original hole in the flat bar going to the pedal. whith this hole i have nearly no brakes. in the original hole i have perfect brakes.any one else have this problem? just want to lower the pedal a bit thanks

Nov 8, 2006 | 10:30 AM

daveengelson

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Joined: Aug 2003

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From: Boulder Creek, Ca

Welcome, came across this website another member posted you may find helpful:

http://www.mongrelmotorsports.homest...f100discs.html

I used 1/2" alum. square stock as a spacer between booster and firewall to addresss the issue. Believe if scroll back few post, or so, in this forum, 61-66, there is a simular topic and few members responded and described how they made the adjustment at the pedal assembly. Also, suggest run a search in this forum 61-66 under 'disc brake' upgrade, or wording simular, likely find additional info. Don't recall if there is any info in the 'article/spec's forum, but suggest browsing, likely find valuable info. Also suggest bookmarking websites, or post may be helpful in future. Many of the upgrades on my 65F100 was with the help from the knowledgeable FTE members.

dave

Nov 8, 2006 | 10:46 AM

William

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From: Sun River St. George

You may have drilled the 5/8th inch hole to far forward? The bar to pedal arm bolt is a eccentric, turning it will raise or lower the pedal quite a bit. You are using the Ford step bracket for the booster ...right?

Nov 9, 2006 | 04:59 AM

steve100

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5th Wheeling

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brake question

thanks for the replys yes im using everything off the same donor truck just as it came off Im going to put a spacer in between saturday i hope this lets the pedal down a good bit Im 6'2 and its hard to get my foot on it lol

Nov 9, 2006 | 07:53 AM

William

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From: Sun River St. George

If the booster support bracket you are using came off the donor truck in two pieces you have the wrong one. You need the mechanical lever type bracket we commonly call the "step bracket". The step bracket will place the booster up and out of the way of the valve cover for FE and 385 series engines. The step bracket also would not require any spacers to set the pedal nearly level with the accelerator on 65-66 F100s. 61-64 are different at the fire wall and require some engineering. I have made several of these 65-66 conversions and the only change I have made is drilling a new 5/8th inch hole in the flat bar just ahead of the original and sawing off the old hole. I then use the eccentric adjustment on the bolt holding the bar to the brake pedal arm to set the pedal height. If you are using the original pedal arm you must drill a new hole in it about 3/4 inch lower than the original. Doing this will establish the correct pedal ratio for boosted brakes. So tell me what you are doing. You should not need spacers and this should be a really easy bolt together deal!

Nov 9, 2006 | 05:10 PM

steve100

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5th Wheeling

Joined: Aug 2006

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thanks for the help

the bracket for the booster raises the booster up and out.i drilled another hole in the flat bar that bolts to the pedal.maybe 1/2 to 3/4 from the original hole when ibolt it up this way i have nearly no brakes.but with it in the original hole they are exellent.i will go out and see if i can find a adjustment bolt

Nov 13, 2006 | 06:40 AM

William

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From: Sun River St. George

The new hole in the flat bar should be just ahead of the original, leaving about 1/16th of an inch of materiel between the holes. The eccentric bolt is the bolt that goes through the flat bar and holds it to the brake pedal arm. The top of that bolt is off set and turning it will move the pedal up or down. If you are using the original pedal arm and original hole your brakes will be touchy and the pedal will sit high. Drill a new hole in the brake pedal arm about 1/2 inch lower than the original. This will correct the "brake pedal ratio" to what it should be for boosted brakes.