Does any one have a pre or post luber system?

Is it a good investment?

Where can I get one?

Thanks!

 

I've seen secondary oil filter systems, such as the oil guard. There are systems where you can cool down your motor and it shuts off automatically. I'm not sure that you really need a pre luber, and the latest "flash" from ford automatically cycles the injectors for 20 seconds to rid the spool valves of excess oil to keep them from being "lazy"

 

try www.pre-luber.com would love to have one . look at the pre/post luber. i was going to come out of the bottom of the oil pan to the preluber, out of the preluber to the top of the oil cap . like this oil cap on ebay . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-POWERSTROKE-DIESEL-6-0-F250-F350-F450-EXCURSION_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33622QQihZ006 QQitemZ160042821876QQrdZ1

let me know what you think.

 

I have a preluber from ESP Products (pre-luber.com) and I love it. It works great. You can really tell the difference when you cold start. The engine turns over easier, especially in the winter when the oil is thicker. Two main points to make about it: 1. The oil pressure comes up as soon as the engine starts. My engine would take about 2-3 seconds to build pressure, using the factory gauge, after a 'cold' start. Cold meaning the engine hadn't been run for say 8 hours. You can literally hear the difference when not using it. The engine would have a little louder rattle to it, then it would immediately go away when the pressure came up. You can watch the gauge, it, the noise, goes away at the same instant the needle comes up. Obviously, the engine was running at that moment in time without adaquate oil film. 2. By using post lubrication, you can cool the turbo down AND, more importantly, lube the bearing as it slows down to a stop. Have you ever noticed the sound? You can hear it slowing down after you shut off the engine. The whole time it is spinning down it has no lubrication, not to mention that it is also very hot. This is what leads to coke formation on the bearing.

Numerous studies have been done by Cat, General Dynamics, Cummins and others that show how dry starts lead to premature engine failure. Each dry start is estimated to equal about 500 miles of driving.

Many will say that it is overkill. Perhaps. Diesels properly maintained can last a long time anyway. I am **** about maintanence and longetivety. Others are into chips, programmers, and loud exhaust, hp, or something else. Whatever floats your boat.

 

Yes, that is exactly the kind of thing I was thinking of. Is that were the company says to put the line connection?

 

Did you install any other add-on's to make your truck last longer?

 

i assume you come out of the oil pan to the pre-luber ,where did you enter back into the engine? any pics ???

 

I have one and love it , also for the the reason that SCAFES states . SO go for it,it's only money and your truck. I have some pic I'll try to post in my Gallary. so check back later and wish me luck.

 

I will have to take pics, though I have never posted any. It will probably take me a little bit to figure out how to do it.

In answer to the question posed, I have bypass filters installed on the engine and the tranny both.

Back to the preluber. I pull oil out of the oil drain port and push it in to the top of the oil filter housing using an Oil Guard filter cap. However, I am in the process, one of these days, of installing a line t-ed into the oil pressure sending unit port. I just haven't taken the time yet to get the sender out and figure out what threads it uses. That sender is hard to get to. I would like to push oil directly into the galley though a larger opening than the 1/4 inch one in the cap. Therefore getting more pressure to the turbo upon shut down. Otherwise it works great as is, best I can tell.