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Pre luber?

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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 09:37 PM
  #1  
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Pre luber?

Ok how does a pre-luber work? got any pics, a link to buy one?
are they worth it?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 10:12 AM
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Well, I put one on my 2001 F150 when new. I feel that it is an advantage during cold starts, particularly with these overhead cam engines. Got about 130,000 miles now, and it's just like new, but I can't really say that's due to the pre-luber. Frankly, I would suspect that it's not worth the trouble unless you expect over 250,000 miles on your engine.

The kind I have is like a pressure tank on a well. They are commonly available from many racing sources. Racers like them to maintain oil pressure during hard cornering (kinda' like a dry sump system). I had a pump type unit on a previous vehicle which used unfiltered oil from the pan and burned out at about 80,000 miles, so I would recommend against that type.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 10:44 AM
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Thanks for the reply, i've got well over 300k on mine right now, 1987 F250 6.9, i'd like to get more? so i was wondering about the pre-luber i look at summit first or is there somewhere cheaper?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 12:40 PM
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I run a 3 quart Masterlube on a motor that would have 8-12 second dry starts every morning, extended warranty paid for new replacement motor. All bearings into the brass. Very common problem on this vehicle as well cams shot at 60K.
I went over the top with relays, electronic timer and a red/green LED. Simple for the wife to use on every startup including hot restarts. www.MasterLube.net

Need more PM me with your email address for more details and photos.
 

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Feb 14, 2007 at 12:45 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 07:49 PM
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In a word they work. Every engine I work on has one, its called cheap insurance for a $250,000 crankshaft and main bearings. They work by tieing in just in front of the oil pump before the oil galley with a one way check valve, they get the oil from the pan. When running, the one way check valve prevents oil from bypassing the engines normal oil path.

On edit, our engines at work have a preset oil pressure signal to maintain before the starter will engage.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by h2odrx
Thanks for the reply, i've got well over 300k on mine right now, 1987 F250 6.9, i'd like to get more? so i was wondering about the pre-luber i look at summit first or is there somewhere cheaper?
If you've gone 300k without one, I can't see the point of adding one now. Any damage from dry starts has already been done.

Now, on a new or rebuilt engine, I can definetly see the usefulness.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 08:09 PM
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From: "Islander"
Originally Posted by mrxlh
In a word they work. Every engine I work on has one, they get the oil from the pan.
You will not see your system on my motors.
Any and all oil including from the preoiler accumulator goes thru
the oil filter before entering the oil passages.
You must have a filter in your system on preoil one would hope?
Today even with a dry 1 quart filter, oil passages drained
overnight I had filter, passages and 26 psi before starting motor.
Oil pump is on the crank snout with cooler and lines from faciory hence
long dry starts without a oiler plus 2,400 rpm's instantly, well not after I worked on it, cold start idle is 625 rpm's. A 4.6 powered LR Discovery.
My motor has ZDDP added, happy cam and lifters.
Ryan; this big earth moving equipment like them super dump trucks?
When I was with the airlines our motors were in the millions should you waste one.
 

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Feb 14, 2007 at 08:21 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
I run a 3 quart Masterlube on a motor that would have 8-12 second dry starts every morning, extended warranty paid for new replacement motor. All bearings into the brass. Very common problem on this vehicle as well cams shot at 60K.
I went over the top with relays, electronic timer and a red/green LED. Simple for the wife to use on every startup including hot restarts. www.MasterLube.net

Need more PM me with your email address for more details and photos.
Hey thanks for the link, i am rebuilding my 300k motor so i think a preluber is a must! pm headed you way!
 
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 10:29 AM
  #9  
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Beemer nut, the filters are in a different location on a natural gas engine, yes it filters after the oil pump, but before entering the oil header. He wanted to know how they work, and if they do work. How it is hooked up all depends on your oiling system configuration. We frequently manually bar these engines over to check coupling alignment and set the rack. Bar one over that has been prelubed vs. one that has not, big difference in drag, so yes they do work, not to mention the turbos are pre/post lubed as well. If I was going to install one, it would be the pre/post system witht he turbo option.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 11:00 AM
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From: "Islander"
Ryan, I figured your big dollar motors would have full filtered oil systems, giving ya a bad time.
I have seen electric motor preoilers that pull oil off the drain plug adapter (good for all the dirt to collect) then pumps straight into the motors oil passages. Nice, dirt included.
Got's to run.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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Yes, that type is or was common; not good! Which is why I recommended the pressure type with valve. Filtered oil,.. simple,... reliable. Been working for over 130,000 miles for me. Works for my wife, ... works with remote start (using Diesel delay setting),...Worked this morning (below zero).

PS: Mine is a one quart system. If I had it to do over, I think I'd like a little more capacity, but fitting it in might be more of a problem.
 

Last edited by MrBSS; Feb 15, 2007 at 11:16 AM.
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 01:16 PM
  #12  
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Try installing a 3 quart under the hood of a 95 Landrover Discovery, everythings within 1/2" from the oiler and it's 1/4" from hitting the hood.
Best thing for keeper vehicles.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 02:55 PM
  #13  
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i have an E.S.P. pre-luber on my 88 diesel. i use a marine model because it is mounted on the trans skid plate, and in the open to the elements like that, the regular unit's motor gaskets wick moisture and will eventually ruin the motor.
it is nothing more than an electric motor,with a pump mounted to it. it draws oil from the bottom of the oil pan, then pumps it to the oil filter head. the unit is controlled by it's own ecm, and i have it set for a run time of 3 minutes after the key is shut off for turbo cooling. it also comes on when the key is turned on. by the time the glow plugs warm up, i have 55 lbs of oil pressure
 
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
i have an E.S.P. pre-luber on my 88 diesel. i use a marine model because it is mounted on the trans skid plate, and in the open to the elements like that, the regular unit's motor gaskets wick moisture and will eventually ruin the motor.
it is nothing more than an electric motor,with a pump mounted to it. it draws oil from the bottom of the oil pan, then pumps it to the oil filter head. the unit is controlled by it's own ecm, and i have it set for a run time of 3 minutes after the key is shut off for turbo cooling. it also comes on when the key is turned on. by the time the glow plugs warm up, i have 55 lbs of oil pressure
Now that is what i am talking about.. where did you find it? E.S.P.?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 11:20 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by h2odrx
Now that is what i am talking about.. where did you find it? E.S.P.?
http://www.pre-luber.com/
 
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