When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1986 ford f250 with a relatively new engine, edlebrock performer manifold, edlebrock 600 cfm carb and msd 6 ignition and headers. I have heard that the heads on this vehicle were restrictive in their airflow due to humps in the exhaust ports. The vehicle is non emission rated. I am looking for some better heads but want some that i can just bolt on. I have heard of dooe heads, gt40 heads, aluminum what can i do
Hello- Welcome to FTE! I have moved your post to the specialized forum we have here for your question. Check out the list of tech forums we have on FTE. There is a wealth of information and expertise here to help you. Check the links at the bottom, and the menu bar at the top, of the page for more information and resources. Have fun!
have you tried summitracing.com , If they are stock heads then yes they are very restrictive, you could port them but not very much, they were built for torque
Depending upon the heads you have, they have potential to make 300hp. Look for the casting number under the valve cover near the center rocker pedistals. If they are E6xx then these are pretty restrictive on the exhaust side, but they do respond to porting. E5xx or E7xx heads will flow better but could still use some work on the exhaust side. The E6 heads are a great torque head.
Ask yourself how much HP you want to make, and if you want low rpm torque to go with it or don't care. The Explorer GT40 heads will work better than anything that came before, and the aftermarket is full of heads that will beat these.. all are direct bolt-ons.
If you are looking for a cam you can pick pretty much anything you want since this is a carb'd motor. Keep the lift under 0.500" to avoid spring binding, shorter duration and less overlap to build more torque down low, higher duration and more overlap builds more HP up higher. You can pretty much tell from the cam descriptions what type power bands they produce.
i am not very knowledgeable about cams so here goes. I believe i have plenty of low end tork but would like more horsepower i think, when i am cruising at highway speeds i seem to loose alot pulling hills. Does the larger number at lift mean more horsepower? I have visited summit and see cams by lunati, comp and crane. You say i should stay below the .500 lift. So if i had a cam with .498 lift what does that mean to me. Thanks
Start by describing what rpms the motor is turning at the speeds you run at. The tire size, gear ratio and transmission all play a part here. So for example, if you had an OD tranny, 3.55 gears and 31" tires at 60mph you would be turning under 2000rpm and when hitting a hill it bogs, drops back to 3rd and revs to 4000rpm max before shifting to OD again. If that was the case you want more power between 1500-4000rpm. If you had a 3sp tranny the rpms would be more like 2500-5000, so you'd need a cam that makes power in that range.
Thanks again for the tech tips. I just had installed a TCI Maximizer C-6 (not even a thousand miles on it yet) which of course is a three speed. And I also had one of their torque converters installed as well. I am running 265x75 16" 10 ply hancook radials, not highway but mild ATV tires. how do i determine the gear ratio of my rear-end. Does the tag on the pumpkin housing reflect anything
How do i determine the gear ratio of my rear-end. Does the tag on the pumpkin housing reflect anything
Yes the tag tells you what's in there. It should be attached to one of the diff cover bolts. I believe it's the bottom row of numbers but I could be wrong. You'll see something like 3 55 or 3L55 for example. The numbers represent the gear ratio and the L denotes limited slip. If there is just a space between the first and second numbers then it's an open diff.
I really appreciate your efforts on this project, i live in a very small farming community in rural Kansas and can't get any real technical advice.
the numbers are as follows on my pumpkin.
I think you are missing a number before the 55 in the bottom row. It's probably so close to the bolt you cannot see it. You can take the bolt out if you like, should offer a better view, but if I were a guessing man, I'd say the missing number is a 3, so you have a 3.55 open differential.
Getting back to cam selection, describe what RPMs the motor runs at under normal driving conditions for you.
You were right it is a 3, i guess now the only way to find out my rpms now is to invest in a tach. I think our local napa has one. You seem very knowledgeable so here is another query. I just had a new TCI Maximizer tranny and TCI torque converter put in my pick up last week. Since then when i come off the line slowly it seems to shift erraticly. It seems to want to shift up the gears really fast and if i go through a dip in the road at slow speeds it seems to jump back and forth. I was told you can adjust the mod valve but i couldn't get it to go in any farther, they said try going out so i turned it out a couple of turns but it still doing the same thing. I had the vacumm checked and i am pulling 50" at idle.
I spent a great deal on this and had a local shop install it but it is harvest and in this town it is hard to get people to warranty. I just figured with a new tranny and all there shouldn't be any problems.
I bought and installed a tach in my pickup and i am running about 2400 rpms at 65 miles and hour.
Wow that was quick. Drive it for a bit now and get a feel for where(what rpms) the existing power is best, and where you would like to improve it.
P.S. I can't really help you with the tranny issue, but is does sound like it's not performing as it should. Definitely hound these guys till you get it right. You could check the fluid level.. it should be in the hash marks on the dip stick with the engine running and eveything including the tranny at operating temperature.
Last edited by Conanski; Nov 10, 2006 at 02:53 PM.