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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 02:51 PM
  #16  
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it seems to have power in the low end but at 65 when i pull hills in our part of the country it seems to pull down as much as 5-10 hr the hills in my estimation are not that steep. i really apprectiate your continued feed back. Do have any feed back on my tranny problem?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 02:58 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by peepinu
it seems to have power in the low end but at 65 when i pull hills in our part of the country it seems to pull down as much as 5-10 hr the hills in my estimation are not that steep.
You have no overdrive so I'm guessing it's not downshifting when you loose the speed on hills, right? What heads are on your motor anyway.. did you check for the casting number?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 05:40 PM
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the heads are stock, i will have to pull a valve cover to see.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 05:54 PM
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the heads are stock, i will have to pull a valve cover to see.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 08:40 PM
  #20  
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can't beat cast iron heads

i have a 1983 f150 3 in body lift and 10 in custom made suspension lift
i have a 396 stroker and i struggled to find heads i went with world product windsor seniors and they are amazing 210 cc intake runners and 58 cc combustionn chambers to boost compression
 
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 09:48 PM
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i don't have a cam in mine yet but have looked at the windsor heads, how dramatic was the increase?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 06:11 AM
  #22  
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if it's shifting to soon you need to screw the mod screw in not out. Mine was shifting way to soon i took it in 3 turns and its way better. also make sure your down shift rod is all the way up.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 06:14 AM
  #23  
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[QUOTE=peepinu]and if i go through a dip in the road at slow speeds it seems to jump back and forth. QUOTE]

That sounds to me like your down shift rod is out of adjustment
 
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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 07:46 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by peepinu
the heads are stock, i will have to pull a valve cover to see.
Don't bother pulling a valve cover, what you're looking for isn't there. Look at the lower front corner of the passenger side head, there next to the valve cover, you should find either a large "S" or "T". The "S" denotes the E6SE heads, good for bottom end torque but they'll choke the crap out of a 351. The "T" will denote the E7TE heads, they'll still choke somewhat a 351, but are far better for horsepower on either engine. On a 302, they're good for 25 more horsepower over the E6 heads. If there are no large letters where I listed, the casting numbers will only be found by pulling the intake manifold and using a mirror to look under the intake runners. The only casting numbers in the rocker area are the date codes and foundry ID's, neither of which tell you what heads you have. If you have E7TE heads, you can easily improve them using a diegrinder and some porting bits when they're off the motor. Just remove the Thermactor bumps in the exhaust ports and open the ports a little wider and raise the roof some.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by baddad457
Don't bother pulling a valve cover, what you're looking for isn't there. Look at the lower front corner of the passenger side head, there next to the valve cover, you should find either a large "S" or "T".
Sorry to mislead everyone but Baddad457 is indeed right, the actual casting numbers are not visible unless the intake is off. I have a set of E5, E6 and E7 heads, and the big letters are visible in the corner near the valve cover, E5=R, E6=S, and E7=T.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Conanski
Sorry to mislead everyone but Baddad457 is indeed right, the actual casting numbers are not visible unless the intake is off. I have a set of E5, E6 and E7 heads, and the big letters are visible in the corner near the valve cover, E5=R, E6=S, and E7=T.
Good that you posted about the "R" heads. I've yet to see that one. Of all the E6 & E7 heads all had the S or T cast in the corner. And if I ain't mistaken, the GT40P heads have a "P" there as well. They also have vertical bars on the ends of the heads, but that's sometimes hidden by the accessory brackets.
 

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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 01:50 PM
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Guys, I can't tell you how helpful you are being to a new enthusiast, I looked at the heads and they are stamped with an "R". What does that tell me. Next there was a comment made about world steel heads and 210cc versus 180cc can you make english out of that for me. I know that the smaller 58cc combustion chambers equate more compression thus more horsepower.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 02:02 PM
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According to what Conanski posted , you've got E5AE heads. Chambers are big at 67-70 cc's. Swapping to a set of 64 cc heads will raise the comp ratio a half point, to 9.0 to 1, if you've got an 8.5 to 1 ratio. Swapping to a set of 58 cc heads will give it another half point boost, to a total increase of one full point. As for those World heads, the 210 and 180 numbers are the intake port volumes. Smaller volume gives you better bottom end, larger gives you more up top. On a street driven truck, you'd want the smaller heads. And how it acts after a head swap also depends on cam and intake choice.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 02:05 PM
  #29  
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Hemieater, I went out and checked my linkage from carb to tranny, i took the linkaage off the tranny and the tranny lever sets at the very top and when i attach the linkage there is no movement. when pressing th gas pedal down the linkage responds instantly with a downward push. By the way what is the 3/8 square shaped bolt just by the lever for.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 03:17 PM
  #30  
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I don't know who gave me the advice on the tranny but my problem tostart was that i couldn't get the small screwdriver tip straight into the hole of the modulator valve, so i bent a small pocket screwdriver and turned the valve nut about 3 1/2 turns and the jerking problem seems to have disappeared.
 
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