frame paint
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old and in the way
Joined: Jul 1997
Posts: 5,923
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From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
frame paint
I'm seeing the point where I'll be ready to paint my frame and need some advise. I want a paint that will be as resistive to road debris, rocks and such as possible, and with the flip front end up I want nice detailed shiny frame rails.. so I want a slick finish... any recommendations for a paint type ??
One suggestion was Imron polyurethane, but someone else said thae Imron would chip easily cause it was so hard ??? guidance please ??
john
One suggestion was Imron polyurethane, but someone else said thae Imron would chip easily cause it was so hard ??? guidance please ??
john
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 196
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From: chicopee us
frame paint
I have a 53 with a flip nose and I went with the POR-15 base coat then top coated with the chassis coat black. Looks good, haven't put too many miles on it yet so I don't know if hte durability is what they claim but I have dropped some tools on it and it hasn't chipped or scratched.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 212
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frame paint
John, I am an auto painter by trade for the last 20+ years and I have found this to work very well. Use an acylic urethane single stage paint with some flex additive in it. The urethane is very durable and with the flex additive in it it becomes a bit more resistant to chips. I have used this many times on auto and motorcycle frames with excellent results. The frame on my 48 is also done this way.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 305
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From: in a house, near sherwood
frame paint
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 17-Sep-02 AT 08:55 PM (EST)]> Use an acylic urethane single stage paint with some flex additive in it.
>The urethane is very durable and with the flex additive in
>it it becomes a bit more resistant to chips. I have used
>this many times on auto and motorcycle frames with excellent
>results. The frame on my 48 is also done this way.
jw
but how does this holdup to brake fluid, or other chemicals? I have foun the urthanes, tend to lift and bubble with brake fluids, an battery acids..
POR 15 doesn't
Robert
>The urethane is very durable and with the flex additive in
>it it becomes a bit more resistant to chips. I have used
>this many times on auto and motorcycle frames with excellent
>results. The frame on my 48 is also done this way.
jw
but how does this holdup to brake fluid, or other chemicals? I have foun the urthanes, tend to lift and bubble with brake fluids, an battery acids..
POR 15 doesn't
Robert
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 13
From: Waynesville, OH
frame paint
Gotta say I'm partial to the two-part catalytic epoxy paints. You can get the black with just about any finish from flat to gloss. The stuff is really tough as nails. Even when it is very cold (-10 F) it won't chip or scratch without a lot of effort. Imagine mixing up some 5-minute epoxy and coating your frame with it. That's what it is, basically. Just make sure you have an absolutely clean surface to work with.
The stuff I used has no isocyanurates so it's not deadly but you do need a good set of breathing apparatus to spray it.
George
The stuff I used has no isocyanurates so it's not deadly but you do need a good set of breathing apparatus to spray it.
George
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: dallas usa
frame paint
John --- I have pictures of a frame painted with POR-15 in my User Galley. I would recommend using the stuff.
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Thread Starter
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old and in the way
Joined: Jul 1997
Posts: 5,923
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From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
frame paint
James,
the frame looks great. I'm now considering imron urethane with a flex additive... but I'm waiting for a catlog from POR-15 to see the color choices... I want a light to medium gray to go with my bright yellow paint... the black would be too much color contrast for me..
If they have a good shade I might use it... if I can get a good shiny finish !
thanks
john
the frame looks great. I'm now considering imron urethane with a flex additive... but I'm waiting for a catlog from POR-15 to see the color choices... I want a light to medium gray to go with my bright yellow paint... the black would be too much color contrast for me..
If they have a good shade I might use it... if I can get a good shiny finish !
thanks
john
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
From: Santa Cruz
frame paint
I'm currently starting a frame up rodstoration on my 56 and I was talking to the guys at the autobody shop that I work at and they say to get the frame powdercoated when I get done cleaning it up. The main advantage there is that everything gets sandblasted and then the paint is electrically attracted to the metal so it gets all the nooks and crannys. I was just wondering if anyone else has heard of doing this and how well it can hold up to the road?
Craig
Craig
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 13
From: Waynesville, OH
frame paint
Hi Craig, 
Got a friend who did some of the suspension parts from a rare 1940-something Volkswagen he restored for a local club. Gotta say the PC finish looks absolutely fabulous! The sample I played with was very hard and didn't scratch easily at all. Wasn't allowed to go at it with a hammer so I can't say if it will break with rock hits and such. So far as I know they don't drive the VW very much and only on nice, sunny days. Trailer queen is the term, I gather.
At any rate, around here at least, PC is pretty expensive to do on a big item unless you have an "in" with some company who does it on a production line or something. I got a quote of $80 to do a gloss black on about 8 small parts. I almost went ahead and did it - I was that impressed with the finish on the VW. I imagine the end result is a strong function of the skill of the folks who do the work too.
George
Got a friend who did some of the suspension parts from a rare 1940-something Volkswagen he restored for a local club. Gotta say the PC finish looks absolutely fabulous! The sample I played with was very hard and didn't scratch easily at all. Wasn't allowed to go at it with a hammer so I can't say if it will break with rock hits and such. So far as I know they don't drive the VW very much and only on nice, sunny days. Trailer queen is the term, I gather.
At any rate, around here at least, PC is pretty expensive to do on a big item unless you have an "in" with some company who does it on a production line or something. I got a quote of $80 to do a gloss black on about 8 small parts. I almost went ahead and did it - I was that impressed with the finish on the VW. I imagine the end result is a strong function of the skill of the folks who do the work too.
George
Thread Starter
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old and in the way
Joined: Jul 1997
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From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
frame paint
I considered P.C. but the frame has some bad pitted areas that will just look shiny and bad if I pc.. so I'm opting for paint and will fill the bad places with bondo and at least they will be pretty under the paint...
I love the looks and durability of pc.. and the cost around here is comparable... but if you have any cosmetic flaws... they show under the pc.. :-(
thanks for all the suggestions guys..
john
I love the looks and durability of pc.. and the cost around here is comparable... but if you have any cosmetic flaws... they show under the pc.. :-(
thanks for all the suggestions guys..
john
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,119
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From: Southern New Hampshire
frame paint
Id strongly suggest the Zero Rust line. POR15 is highly toxic and cant be recoated if you chip it.
ZR seals rust even better than POR, it can be touched up, not toxic, goes on satin but you can use varying amounts of clear for gloss.
I use it on frames, inner fenders, inside body panels.
www.zerorust.com follow link to a real life POR15 comparison
ZR seals rust even better than POR, it can be touched up, not toxic, goes on satin but you can use varying amounts of clear for gloss.
I use it on frames, inner fenders, inside body panels.
www.zerorust.com follow link to a real life POR15 comparison
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