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The dash is wired different for the type of charging system you have. The signal to trigger your old system came from the "gen" light in the old dash. The old dash is gone, so you lost the light and the trigger wire that went with it.
I know it has been a month, but I finally got to go out for a few minutes and here's what I got. I ran the green w/red to run the white on the alternator. I pulled the connection apart, and tried the green w/red for power. With the key off there is no voltage. Key on, it measures the same as battery. That tells me that the white is, in fact, keyed on. Then, I measured amperage from the pos post to the pos cable. I had .3 with the key off. What does that mean? I have a slow leak somewhere, right? Next question is: how do I find it?
Then, I measured amperage from the pos post to the pos cable. I had .3 with the key off. What does that mean? I have a slow leak somewhere, right? Next question is: how do I find it?
Your sure you measured amps and not volts? If so yes that is a draw somewhere. I always do the tried and true method of using the multimeter between connections on amperage. Some people do the ground side, i do the hot side.
For example lets start at the starter relay, i would remove a wire from it. Then take one lead of the multimeter and connect it to the wire then the other lead and connect it to where the wire was connected on the start relay. This forces the power to go through the multimeter and it can measure how much there is flowing. Certain wires will have certain amounts, like the power going to the fuseblock that supplys power for the radio. YOu can also do this test on the fuse block by removing a fuse and forcing it through the multimeter. Beware that most multimeters can usaully only have a max of 20 amps load on them.
Your sure you measured amps and not volts? If so yes that is a draw somewhere. I always do the tried and true method of using the multimeter between connections on amperage. Some people do the ground side, i do the hot side.
I had it set to amps. I guess what I am asking is, it should read exactly zero, right? Now, to narrow it down, you are saying try each circuit in the cab at the fuse block? Can't a rubbed wire that is hot cause a slow drain like this?
Franklin, I can't use the test light method because I don't have a test light. I prefer the multimeter, but want to make sure I am not making a simple mistake when using it. Thanks again for the help, guys. Maybe one day I will find it.
I guess what I am asking is, it should read exactly zero, right?
It depends on the circuit. For example some relays can have a small voltage leak through them. And liek i was saying earlier the radio is always going to voltage to keep the memory. Depending on the type of multimeter you are using , i wouldn't worry about anything that is under an amp draw. There is a spec somewhere but usally with draws you will find it and it will be obvious.
Originally Posted by teds74ford
Now, to narrow it down, you are saying try each circuit in the cab at the fuse block? Can't a rubbed wire that is hot cause a slow drain like this?
I try the circuits in the cab, then i can determine if its before or aft the fuse block which can eliminate more work. I would say a rubbed wire wouldn't cause it, or at least i haven't run into that. The rubbed wire would blow a fuse if it is conencted to one since it would be a direct short or melt the insulation off until the wire melts or looses its connection to the ground.
Also make sure your battery isn't the actual draw. I've had normal acid/lead plate batteries short across the top and cause a draw/drain on the battery. To check that take your multimeter and measure the voltage of the battery. Stick one of the leads on the + term and the other on the case of the battery in diff areas and see if you can get a reading of battery voltage. If so then the battery needs a good rinsing then repeat the voltage checking
I had it set to amps. I guess what I am asking is, it should read exactly zero, right? Now, to narrow it down, you are saying try each circuit in the cab at the fuse block? Can't a rubbed wire that is hot cause a slow drain like this?
This thread started with your alternator. You may have it wired up correctly now, but it still could be faulty and cause a drain. During your checks with your meter, pull all the wires off the alt and see if your drain goes away.
Franklin, I can't use the test light method because I don't have a test light. I prefer the multimeter, but want to make sure I am not making a simple mistake when using it.
That's fine. Depending on how much electronic gadgets you have, you will normally have in the neighborhood of .012 to .035 amp draw.
So, at 0.3, I am way over the 0.012 to 0.035. Any ideas what would take that much?
74, as far as the battery being bad, it is a couple months old. That being said, how do you mean to take a reading on a plastic case? I understand the pos terminal, just not the rest.
Just that, take a reading on the case. If the battery has leaked enough, even though you can't see it, the battery will transfer voltage across the battery case or whatever you want to call it. Like I was saying just stick one lead on the terminal, then take the other lead and jsut touch all over the top to see if you ever get any voltage reading.
Just curious but how fast is this draining the battery?
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