Hi all,
I've got a 1995 ford ranger with 4.0 and 4speed w/ o.d. When the truck is off I can shift through all the gears wether or not the clutch is in or not, but when the truck is runing I can't put it in any gear and it will grind when I try to put it in reverse, now if I put the truck into gear and try to start it it will jump forward or back if in reverse wich makes me think the clutch is fine. the truck will still only start if the clutch is in, also the master cylinder resivoir is full. I'm thinking that it's the slave cylinder, because the clutch is basically not doing anything when you push it in, and as far as I can tell there is no fluid leaking out anywhere. I would just like to get a secnd opinion on this before I take it all apart. any info is helpful and very appreciated.

 

Yes it does sound like it might be the slave cylinder. You might try bleeding it to see if you get any improvement in the action of the clutch. If it gets better after bleeding, it might be okay for a while, might help you get through till the weedend. Some times the master cylinder goes bad too. How many miles on it?

 

Sounds like you have a problem, but as far as reverse, this is what the owners manual has to say about shifting into reverse with the M5OD:

"With the 5-speed transmission you can engage R (Reverse) only by moving the gearshift from the left of 3 (Third) and 4 (Fourth) gears before you shift into R (Reverse). This is a special lockout feature that protects you from accidentally shifting into R when you downshift from 5 (Fifth) gear."

Don't want to hi-jack this thread, but I have a similar problem, namely difficult to change gears, but the clutch is definately not slipping.

Shifting into first after stopping is tough, shifting into fourth, then into first usally gets it done. Subsequent shifts after the truck is moving feels almost like 'power shifts', that is to say shifting by virtue of the syncro's, and not using the clutch.

When the engine is off, the transmission shifts smoothly into all gears.

The clutch pedal is quite stiff compared to my other Ranger with the exact same transmission.

I suspect it's probably a hydraulic system problem, but I'm not positive how to determine which end, slave or master. Or both...

I am going to bleed the system, but found that the bleeder nipple AND the clutch quick disconnect are both a little too far into the transmission housing to easily get too. This makes me think that perhaps someone replaced it with the wrong slave, or something is aggregiously wrong there.

Been researching this some, and one tip I came across is to remove the reservoir cover, and have someone press the clutch. Supposedly if the fluid level moves, the master is bad. Hopefully someone here can comment on this...

One other thing, there is a replaceable plastic bushing that connects the master cylinder pushrod to the pedal - if thats really worn out, you can lose valuable travel that can affect shifts...

 

Its your slave cylinder. I am assuming when you say you can still start it with the clutch in, you mean also you have the transmission in nuetral.

 

I'd agree with the first thing to do is bleeding it. I was having a simular issue with mine and when I bled it found some white pasty looking stuff come out of the slave cylinder. From what I've read, this is what happens to the fluid when it has moisture in it.
My clutch finally was replaced almost a year after that. And the same kind of symptoms. I kept bleeding it, it would help for a little while, then the process would start all over again. When I replaced the clutch at 104K, the clutch plate wasn't worn out completely, but I replaced it and all the clutch componets AND the slave cylinder. It works as it should ever since. By the way, there was no slippage, just hard to shift, especially into 1st.

So I'd start with bleeding and see what you find.

 

I had the same problem and it was the slave cylinder. Got a slave from autozone for 50.00 removed the left inner fenderwell for easier access and had it done in about 1 hr. the hardest part was bleeding the darn thing.

 

Bleed it, this will probably give you some idea whether the MC is functioning or not. If it isn't leaking fluid out it puts the MC on the hot seat, but if you can pump fluid through the bleeder then the slave is *PROBABLY* functioning correctly. The slave cylinder is a fair job, I would strongly recommend at least checking the thickness of the clutch disc while you're in there, since the only difference between doing an SC and doing a full clutch job is about $150 and the 6 bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel, I'd hate to have to do it twice. But I'd feel better if you can get a little more reassurance that the SC is in fact the problem. Keep us posted.

 

That's the master cylinder. Slave is inside the bellhousing, concentric on the tranny input shaft, and replacement requires removal of the transmission.

 

Follow up: I bled the clutch tonight. Got some white gunk out, and the fluid was really nasty. I kept bleeding till I had changed out all the fluid.

Bleeding was definately worthwhile; shifting is absolutely improved, as is clutch feel. My subjective opinion is that the pedal requires a little less force now as well.

Shifting is still a little 'notchy', but like I said, vastly improved. Shifting into first from a stop is still not right. A little pressure, then let up, then try the shift again will slot it right in. Easier then before, but I still think I need to replace the clutch sooner rather than later...

I can hear a slight creaking noise from the bellhousing when the clutch is depressed. Looking into the inspection port, I see a very rusty looking pressure plate.

Would worn or weakened pressure plate springs cause the hard shifting? Or perhaps things aren't moving properly on the splines of the trans shaft?

It shifts very smoothly into all gears once you get that initial shift in... well until you cycle the clutch again.

 

My '86 Ranger 2.9 is doing something very similar. Fluid levels are all good and nothings leaking. I can shift fine with the engine off doesn't matter if the clutch is in or not. But once I start it and put it into gear it takes an act of God to get it into the next gear or back into first. Sound like a Slave problem? Thanks ya'll. and can someone direct where to look for detailed instructions on how to bleed/change the clutch/slave. Trannys are not my forte'.

 

The ultimate solution to that problem, at least for me, was to replace the clutch. On removal, the clutch disk was worn almost down to the rivets. Get yourself a manual, Haynes or a CD/ROM based one - they are only a few bucks on ebay...

 

I have a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0 and had the same problem. So we put it up on a rack and pulled it apart. I had already picked up a new clutch kit because the truck had 168,000 + miles on it. When I checked out my old parts the clutch still looked new. It turned out that the pilot bearing came apart. It's a needle bearing and some of the rollers got in between the clutch and the flywheel. I did replace all the parts even though the old parts where still in good shape. But when you have it all apart and the new parts sitting there. Thats not the time to cut corners.