REALLY close call
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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REALLY close call
I put a new battery and cable ends in the truck tonight, but had trouble starting it.
So....I opened the hood to see if it was getting fuel, and noticed a "HOT" smell. I poked around a little further and noticed a small but steady stream of smoke coming up from the firewall. I immediately disconnected the battery, and started trying to remember where the fire extinguisher was.
-don't have one.
Fortunately, the smoke eventually started to die down, and I located the source.
There's a block on the passenger side of the firewall- it was so hot that I could feel the heat 2-3 inches away. There are two wire ends plugged into it (actually one wire that is interrupted). I unplugged the lower one that was so hot- the tab sticking out was super hot.
Anybody know what that thing is- and what it does??
So....I opened the hood to see if it was getting fuel, and noticed a "HOT" smell. I poked around a little further and noticed a small but steady stream of smoke coming up from the firewall. I immediately disconnected the battery, and started trying to remember where the fire extinguisher was.
-don't have one.
Fortunately, the smoke eventually started to die down, and I located the source.
There's a block on the passenger side of the firewall- it was so hot that I could feel the heat 2-3 inches away. There are two wire ends plugged into it (actually one wire that is interrupted). I unplugged the lower one that was so hot- the tab sticking out was super hot.
Anybody know what that thing is- and what it does??
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 222
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From: Las Cruces USA
The ballast resistor being "red hot" no doubt explains why your truck will not start.
The circuit for the ignition is from the ignition switch thru the ballast resistor thru the coil to the ignition points (if you have points, which I suspect you do). The resistor will normally be very warm to the touch with the engine running, but not "too" hot.
I would check the points to see if they are worn out and stuck clossed, causing a short to ground from the battery thru the circuit described above.
With an ignition point/ballast resistor system, if the ignition switch is left on for a long period of time and the engine has stopped in a position where the points happen to be closed, the points and the ballast resistor can be ruined from the heat.
As I said, check the points; they may be a simple fix.
OldFords
bad attitudes
The circuit for the ignition is from the ignition switch thru the ballast resistor thru the coil to the ignition points (if you have points, which I suspect you do). The resistor will normally be very warm to the touch with the engine running, but not "too" hot.
I would check the points to see if they are worn out and stuck clossed, causing a short to ground from the battery thru the circuit described above.
With an ignition point/ballast resistor system, if the ignition switch is left on for a long period of time and the engine has stopped in a position where the points happen to be closed, the points and the ballast resistor can be ruined from the heat.
As I said, check the points; they may be a simple fix.
OldFords
bad attitudes
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Junior User
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Thanks for the diagnosis.
I think I found the problem--
The hot wire to the coil had become brittle and started cracking away at the coil.
I'll try this after work tommorrow- i'm pretty sure that's it.
Thanks alot
I think I found the problem--
The hot wire to the coil had become brittle and started cracking away at the coil.
I'll try this after work tommorrow- i'm pretty sure that's it.
Thanks alot
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
A good alternative would be to replace the points, condenser and coil with a Pertronix II unit and Pertronix 12v coil.
That eliminates the resistor and gives you an electronic ignition system that is outstanding and trouble free.
The "ballast " (voltage dropping) resistor is there to prevent excessive current in the coil. The resistor is bypassed during starting so you get the full 12v (or whatever you get with the starter cranking) to maximize the spark during cranking. THis is not required with a Pertronix unit since it provides MUCH more voltage to the plugs anyway.
I will never go back to points and condenser ignition.
Regards,
Rick
That eliminates the resistor and gives you an electronic ignition system that is outstanding and trouble free.
The "ballast " (voltage dropping) resistor is there to prevent excessive current in the coil. The resistor is bypassed during starting so you get the full 12v (or whatever you get with the starter cranking) to maximize the spark during cranking. THis is not required with a Pertronix unit since it provides MUCH more voltage to the plugs anyway.
I will never go back to points and condenser ignition.
Regards,
Rick
Last edited by HT32BSX115; Oct 29, 2006 at 10:18 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
If that wiring harness is as close to your ballast resistor as it looks in the picture, I would suggest that you move it further away from the wiring harness as over time the heat could cause problems there. They do get rather hot even in normal operation. You can eliminate it entirely if you switch to an electronic ignition as Rick suggested. 
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