1995 Engine cranks with key off
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1995 Engine cranks with key off
My 95 psd 5 speed has 430k. Runs strong, pulls 12,000 LBS with out any problems, but I've been having some starting problems. In the past 2 months I've put on 2 solenoids on the started and one on the firewall. The new glow plugs cycle properly it doesn't want to start, you turn the key back to run and the starter keeps cranking, turn it to off and the motor keeps cranking. I have checked for bare wires..........didn't see any. Before I spend another $60 on another new solenoid for it only to work 2 or 3 weeks...........what keeps taking out my solenoids? I have had one made 2 made in china and 1 thats on right now was made mexico. The starter was a rebuild 3 years ago the battery cables are about 3 years old as well.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Nampa, ID
You haven't mentioned anything about fuses. Are you blowing fuses? Are there fusible links in-line with the solenoids?
By no stretch of the imagination do I consider myself knowledgeable on electrical problems, but there isn't much to solenoids. They're either "good" or "bad" and work or don't work.
Is it possible that the solenoids themselves are the problem?
By no stretch of the imagination do I consider myself knowledgeable on electrical problems, but there isn't much to solenoids. They're either "good" or "bad" and work or don't work.
Is it possible that the solenoids themselves are the problem?
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No i'm not blowing fuses.....there is the burning electrical smell. All a solenoid needs is voltage to pull in when power is put to the ignition side. I could see possible one bad one but not 2 in a row.
Thanks for the help...............i'm truley not an electrical expert either, any help is appriciated.
Thanks for the help...............i'm truley not an electrical expert either, any help is appriciated.
Last edited by Chester_field; Oct 29, 2006 at 02:33 PM.
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I have power on the ignition switch in the start position and no power in the run position.
I did try jumping the solenoid on the firewall with the ignition wire off as well.....I won't do that again. It cranked long then its ever cranked before.
Thanks for the help at least I ruled out the ignition as being the problem, and that all I want to do is rule out everthing else.
I did try jumping the solenoid on the firewall with the ignition wire off as well.....I won't do that again. It cranked long then its ever cranked before.
Thanks for the help at least I ruled out the ignition as being the problem, and that all I want to do is rule out everthing else.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
its possible that the ignition switch is sticking even thought the lock cylinder is returning to the run position. many times the ignition switcheds have the factory grease in there but then get all gummed up becasue of the dust and what not getting in there.
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I have seen solenoids hang up when the starter is drawing too much current. I would check the current draw in the start position.
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Junior User
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From: Maple Ridge, BC
i would agree with yellow jacket, even though you had the starter rebuilt a few years back doesnt mean its still all happy. check the draw on start up maybe its a little on the high side and bunrin up your solenoids. does it crank over normal or sound a bit like its dragging? check your battery terminals and where the cable attaches to the starter a poor connection will draw tons of current. i had mine burn up a bit at the starter.
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After fried the 1 st repacement solenoid I took the starter in to a local rebuilder and all he said he could find wrong was the solenoid. I would hope he checked the current draw on the starter. I know he did say the brushes were good. He's the one who put on the Mexico solenoid.
It still cranks on like the solenoid is temporaly welded in the closed positioned with the ignition switch out of the equation.
I have transport batteries 975 CCR each with replaceable screw on posts.......that was my last thought so I replaced them all, cleaned everything and greased them all, with the last solenoid change.
I guess the next step is going to be pull the starter again and take it in make SURE the current draw gets bench tested...........if thats ok, then it will be new positive battery cables, eventhough it is not that old the quality in Fords supplier craftsmanship is in my mined suspect. Where the cables are cast into the lead fittings doesn't look good. Lately has been question in the back of my mined.
Thanks again for the help.
It still cranks on like the solenoid is temporaly welded in the closed positioned with the ignition switch out of the equation.
I have transport batteries 975 CCR each with replaceable screw on posts.......that was my last thought so I replaced them all, cleaned everything and greased them all, with the last solenoid change.
I guess the next step is going to be pull the starter again and take it in make SURE the current draw gets bench tested...........if thats ok, then it will be new positive battery cables, eventhough it is not that old the quality in Fords supplier craftsmanship is in my mined suspect. Where the cables are cast into the lead fittings doesn't look good. Lately has been question in the back of my mined.
Thanks again for the help.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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My 97 does the same thing. Ihave put on new gp relay,solenoid,batteries, and even put a switch in between starter solenoid. I had a fuel leak in the valley. It was the fuel filter sensor on top of fuel canister. So i have the leak stopped because i thought the fuel wasn't shorting out solenoid. It was running into the flywheel cover soaking the starter. Hope it is stopped tired of pulling off battery cables.