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Temperature this morning was about 27 degrees. Waited for the 'Wait to Start" light to go out. Started it up. I never heard so much racket in my life. The old girl was blowing white smoke and missing big time. After it idled for a few moments, it quitened down and the smoke went away. Check oil level, OK, check all other fluids, OK.
Unless you have some air in the fuel, then sorry that is normal for a diesel to be louder and chug white smoke until cylinder temps come up to where air can be heated enough to be sufficiently burned with fuel. Even my truck billows out white smoke for a second or two heavily out both stacks and then turns to blue for a few seconds, and then goes away. my GP's work great, and i usually never have to wait for the WTS light to go out. Maybe one or two seconds for the fuel pressure to come up, and then crank and bam it starts within two seconds. I normally do let the GP's work, there is less smoke on startup.
That is the nature of a diesel, it relies on compressed air that is heated enough to the point where it will autoignite with the fuel. White smoke is actually fuel vaporized and not burnt.
Thanks Strokin, I was a little worried there. $225 a pop for injectors is a little steep and with the big "D" happening right now, I just cannot afford to spend bucks like that on the old girl.
I'd suggest checking your glow plugs and GPR. I don't think you should have that much smoke and noise at 27*, I don't get white smoke until it's below 10*.
I experienced the same thing last year when temps were around 18 deg for a day or two. Scared the heck out'a me when I saw it but after it settled down and quit shakin' it ran great. Only took a minute or so. Kept my eye on the oil pressure guage, tho.
Hey, clux!....."GPR"? Is that the glow plug relay? I'm still learning all these acronyms.
The truck is 6 years old. The block heater has never been used. I think I would be a little afraid of a fire. I don't have the slightest idea how to check it out.
Odds are it's in fine shape; inspect the wire along its path from the plug. No cracks, melted spots or abrasions it should be fine. Get a HD timer and set it for two hours before you want to start it, or even a programmable thermostatic outlet... a good extension cord too... 12/2 w/ground is recommended.
Just checked the heater cord. Everything looks OK.
I check my block heater cord/heating element with a DVM(multimeter) and look for 15 ohm's resistance across the two prongs. This resistance value comes out to the correct wattage(1000watts). Any more than 15 ohms and i check my connections.
Mrfixit: Just checked the heater cord. Everything looks OK.
The easiest way is to get a test light, and hook the grounding clamp to the positive terminal of the battery, so that it lights up if you ground the probe.
Now unplug the terminals from the valve cover gaskets and touch the probe to the larger terminals at each end of the plug in the valve cover gaskets. A good glow plug will allow the light to come on. A burned out glow plug=no light.
Do the covers have to come off. I have not been this deep into the top end yet. I have a slight cover leak on the driver's side, but it is small enough (oozes, not running), not to mess with at the time. If so this would be a good time to fix that too.
A pic showing what you described would be great.
Mrfixit:
I don't make fun of anyone. Everybody is a newbie with some of the problems these PS's come up with. Especially when the PMS syndrome is working!
The covers do not have to come off, simply unplug the connectors at the cylinder head. To do so, push down very firmly on the center of the lock button on the top of the plug and pull the connector away from the head at the same time. You will see nine pins inside. The five smaller ones are for the injectors. The four larger ones, two at each end are for the glow plugs.
In rare cases you can be fooled by a shorted out wiring harness, but for the most part it's a good quick test. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...or-wiring.html