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I'v been having starter problem with my B-2 after I changed the starter and the problems came back a week later. I checked the fly wheel and noticed that I have almost no gears left. I guess I'll be changing the flywheel. What can I expect and what do I need to be care full of? Also what would be some good things to do while I'm changing out the fly wheel?
well since you will be pulling the transmission..might as well replace the rear main seal on the motor if it's never been done..that will save on oil leaks in the future. Oh..and have fun doing..i've pulled the transmission and replaced it by myself 4 times over the past 3 years. I've got it down to a science now..can have it out in under 2hrs and back in under 4hrs.
I already replaced the starter cable when I replaced the starter the old one was quite bad. I'll make sure that I remember the rear seal; the truck sat for quite some time before I got it and leakes oil from every where. My garage looks like the Exxon Valdez parks there.
The truck is an '87 Bronco II Eddie Bower Edition 2.9 FI engine \ automatic with push buton 4WD. I belive that It is a C5 transmition - why? Because a C5 with 4WD is the only one that my Chilton book describes as having a bolt securing the fluid filler tube to the engine valve cover. Scratch that; the door tag lists it as trans type "T" (Chiltons says this is a A4LD).
My problem is that I'm having an imposible time finding any wrench or socket that I can get onto the bolt head. It seems to be a 10mm head, but there just isn't any room for my socket and my combo wrenches wont reach. Of course now that I'v determined that it is not a C5 but an A4LD (and Chiltons doesn't say anything about the filler tube bolt on an A4LD) I'm wondering if I even need to worry about it.
I'm begining to wonder if I'll ever get this truck started again.
Any ways after you guys are done laughing about me if you could give me some pointers I'd appreciate it.
it's actually bolted to the back of the head behind the valve cover..I never took my filler tube out as it will come apart where it slides into the trans at the Oring when you pull the trans out. just line it back up when you put it back in.
yep..they are A4ld automatics.
just leave it bolted up to the engine. when you drop the tranny just make sure you keep track of the o-ring,and just line it back up during re-installation. when i removed my manual from my 86 back in may,i used a 3 foot extension and a swivel joint/socket,worked like a champ! i would replace the rear main on the engine and front seal on the tranny while it's apart,better to do it now than having to take it apart all over again. hope this helps!
I'm about 1\2 done pulling the trans. My manual doen't say anything about removing the front drive shaft or the plate that is under the transfer case are these thns that I should remove?
yes..front drive shaft has to be removed..take the front bolts out then pull it out..might have to pry where it comes out of the transfer case..but GENTLY PRY..as you dont want to bend that ring/seal. The cross member under the transmission should be the last thing you remove with a jack under the transmission for support. Make sure you've disconnected the shifter linkage. Easiest way i found for that is remove the tow bolts that hold the linkage to the frame then there is a 15mm(?) bolt that tightens down on a round rod ..loosent that and slide that rod out of the way..then there is two bolts on the side of the transmission that hold a red bracket..take them loose..put bolts back in holes for safe keeping..One will be a tad smaller then the other. Make sure you've removed the starter, the inspection plate off the bottom of the transmission, the four 14mm bolts off the torque convertor. All 6 bolts off the bell housing. On top of the motor will be a vent hose..pull that off. Both transmission lines have been removed. Rear drive shaft disconnected. Spedo cable disconnected. The plug on the transmision for neutral safety switch, reverse lights and 4x4 selector. Popped the 4x4 **** off the tcase selector inside truck..comes off easily by taking an adjustable wrench and opening it to fit where the **** and shaft are and taping upwards with a hammer. Then after all that check around to make sure you haven't missed anything. Make sure the transmisison and Transfer case are supported. Remove the two bolts that are bolted to the trans mount (18mm i beleive) ..there will be a exhaust hanger tab that is on the passenger side bolt of the transmount..fold that down out of the way. Then remove the two bolts on the end of the cross memeber and remove crossmember. start working the trans back out and down carefully.
GOOD LUCK!!
when i removed my transfer case i jusr unbolted the front driveshaft at the u-joint and left the other end in t-case so that it would not make a mess.it worked out well. hope it all goes well for you! let us know how you make out with it!
probably a little late but the best tool I have found to remove the transmission, is a ratcheting box end wrench with a swivel. I bought the craftsman set and I use those things all the time. It was well worth the price.
Haven't finnished yet! Bought an '86 B II 4WD manuel over the week end it is in much better condition then my '87 Auto. I prefer the driving auto trans, but man that 5 speed seems tough. I'll probably just transfer the tags from my '87 over to the '86 and let the '87 sit in the garage untill I have more time to work on it. I'm thinking of putting the auto trans in the '86 but I'm not sure I like the idea of changing from the original manf. set up on a vehical that works as well as this one does. What do you guys think.
I probably will just rebuild the engine and keep for a spare, salvage what I can from the '87 and junk the rest.
why scrap a vehicle just because of the flywheel? i would replace it and then clean it up and sell it for whatever you can get out of it. changing the flywheel and clutch assy on my 86b2 was far one of the easiest i have ever done..i rented a tranny jack and it made life alot easier. i had mine done on a weekend.
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