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OK. I have read all the threads about cleaning gas tanks. However, I don't have a tractor to strap the thing to to tumble my crud away. Therefore, revert to plan B which is to have the thing done at a local radiator shop.
Calling around today, I have discovered that the Federal Government has gotten involved in my little project and slapped an EPA disposal fee on the muck removed from my tank. The result is that in my hometown only one shop does work on gas tanks and they want (drumroll please) $150 plus an EPA disposal fee of $12.50. I have literally called everyone in the phone book with no luck.
Has anyone ever heard of this. Austin is an environamentalist haven and I am wondering if I might have better luck up I35 a ways.
A couple of more questions:
Anyone ever use POR 15 on the inside of the tank? I have about a gallon of the stuff I was saving for my VW Thing floorboards.
What about gas tank Renu. Kind of pricey but sounds like a permanent fix
Has anyone started making repop fuel tanks for 48-50
This is the only thing lacking to start my beast other than running the fuel lines. No wonder it has taken me 8 years!
Tim,
I was in the same dilemma with my 48, I called around and finally found one shop where the guy told me that I could do the same thing myself that he would do to the tank. He told me to get some Hydrochloric Acid (Muriatic Acid), pour it in the tank, slosh it around, then let it sit for a couple of hours. Then rinse it out good with water. So, I went to Home Depot and bought a two gallon pack of Acid for $6.50. I did what he said twice ( rolling around to let the acid sit in different spots one the tank about every 45 min.) rinsed it out with water and now it looks like a new tank. Worked great! You can also find a shop that will just vat your tank for about $45 and that gets it like a new tank. Have talked to several people and specialists that say the sealer with deteriorate in about 4-5 yrs. They say to just do the acid thing and just keep it full of gas and use a can of Heet in every tank and you will be fine. Hope this helps you it worked great for me!
Cory:
I am going to try the Muratic acid. I wanted a shop to do it for the pressure test. Guess I'll improvise first.
The tank Renu is a plastic coating that is baked on. It is apparently a national company with a lifetime warranty. I had never heard of it until I looked thru Hemmings. Kind of pricey at $350!
I found the process in Hemmings Motor News. There are apparently distributors all over the country. The lady told me they actually sandblast inside and out to bare metal and coat. Said they could fix virtually anything as long as it had some structure left. Thw one I contacted was in Waller Texas but a net search turned several up across the country.
If it is going to cost me $175 to vat, clean, repair and pressure test my tank this could be an option. $350 though (Ouch!)
Tim,
Are you looking to replace the behind seat tank of your F1? I have the tank out of my 50 F1 that I won't need. It's in excellent shape. Going to install between the frame tank.
I used the POR-15 3-step rust treatment on my 59. So far, it seems to be working fine on the frame and underside of the truck. However, for some reason it peeled mercilessly on the interior of the cab of the truck. I don't know if POR-15 has a gas tank treatment or not and if it's any good since I've only used the rust treatment system on the metal. But, my feeling about the whole POR-15 line is only "luke-warm"... It was less expensive than sandblasting + coating, but in hindsight, maybe I should have spent the extra $$ and gone with the sure-fire remedy.
I would try the acid treatment. After you get it clean, you can use one of the available sealing products. And of course seal the outside with paint and undercoat. I can't imagine paying the prices you quote for pro repair. I would think a better used tank that will clean up easier a better option than $350.
I cleaned my tank myself with muriatic acid, then pressure washed the inside. I then treated it with phosphoric acid which leaves a light, phosphate coating (available by the gallon at Home Depot). Phoshoric acid is what Dupont Metal Prep is made of. I then used the POR-15 special tank sealer. It's working fine so far but it's only been a few months. Ask me again in a couple of years. As for not sealing the tank, most old tanks were terne coated which is a lead/tin alloy plating. If your tank is all rusty like mine, then the terne plating is gone and I don't see how you could not seal it with something. If it's just full of crud and the plating is still good, maybe you wouldn't have to seal it.
OK! Did the Muratic acid trick. Filled the tank up with water and put in two gallons of Muratic acid. It started smoking so I figured it must be working. My next door neighbor assisted with the mixture and immersion time (2.5 hours). He is an industrial water treatment chemist so I felt very confident.
Result: Took most of the rust out. The internal surface is now a very pitted structure. After about an hour, small pitt holes began showing up. As I scrapped with a wire brush and hit with a water jet from the hose, more showed up. I now have 13 pinholes.
I am going to have the boys wire brush the outside while I practice soldering. Also going to order up some sealer. Maybe Hirsch's. Anyone ever used this stuff. Whatabout aircraft "sloshing compound"?
Tim,
Did you pour in the acid, then fill it with water(with acid still inside)? Or was the acid in by itself? Sounds like you got all your rust out good though.
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