Surge Tank Leaks
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
From: Centreville USA
Surge Tank Leaks
Some time ago I posted about a pin hole leak developing in the joint where the waterneck is soldered to the bottom of the brass surge tank. I thought I found the pinhole and tried sealing it up with marine grade epoxy which didn't work. As there are no real radiator shops in my area that can repair the tank, I have ordered a replacement from Greg Donahue (Greg advised that vibration is what causes the cracks and to make sure that the upper radiator hose is not pressed tight up against the side of the surge tank (mine is) or radiator).
I have used the gas tank repair sealer sold by POR-15 to restore and seal my gas tank. I talked to POR-15 about using the same sealer on the inside of the brass surge tank. The tech advisor said that it would work. He said I should follow the instructions (Marine Clean to clean out the tank, Metal Ready to etch the inside of the tank, and then the sealer). He said that the sealer is impervious to coolant and will withstand heat (when cured) of up to 600 degrees F.
Have any of you tried this? Does it sound like a reasonable thing to do? Can anyone think of any problems it could cause?
Thanks in advance.
I have used the gas tank repair sealer sold by POR-15 to restore and seal my gas tank. I talked to POR-15 about using the same sealer on the inside of the brass surge tank. The tech advisor said that it would work. He said I should follow the instructions (Marine Clean to clean out the tank, Metal Ready to etch the inside of the tank, and then the sealer). He said that the sealer is impervious to coolant and will withstand heat (when cured) of up to 600 degrees F.
Have any of you tried this? Does it sound like a reasonable thing to do? Can anyone think of any problems it could cause?
Thanks in advance.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 1
From: NE Ga
Not sure what kinda setup you have at your home but if you've gotta torch, why not just braze it yourself. How much does that guy want to do his seal job? If it's good for withstanding coolant and good for 600 degrees then why not other than a possible high cost?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
From: Centreville USA
Its a do it yourself kit.
Costs about $50.00. Yes, I have a torch. Yes, I have soldered/brazed on the surge tanks before. The problem for me is I would want to do every seam to make sure they don't leak. Not sure my skill level is up to that, and there is no one left in my area (Northern Virginia) that does that sort of radiator work. All the old time radiator shops have been shut down.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,785
Likes: 4
From: Mddl A MexCans
I used it on my Marine tanks. It works well as a combo ro clean prep and seal a tank. However I cant confirm the heat part sorry. I can however advise on a few things.
1. Wash out the metal etch very well and use a fresh air souce to "thoroughly" dry the tank prior to adding sealant. Dont get in a hurry.......
2. Under no circumstances do you want to put the lid back on the container of sealant. "It will explode" I'd get the smallest kit they sell.. the metal ecth qt is more than enough "much more" and any extra sealer is just trash.
BOL
1. Wash out the metal etch very well and use a fresh air souce to "thoroughly" dry the tank prior to adding sealant. Dont get in a hurry.......
2. Under no circumstances do you want to put the lid back on the container of sealant. "It will explode" I'd get the smallest kit they sell.. the metal ecth qt is more than enough "much more" and any extra sealer is just trash.
BOL
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
From: Centreville USA
Originally Posted by Redmanbob
I used it on my Marine tanks. It works well as a combo ro clean prep and seal a tank. However I cant confirm the heat part sorry. I can however advise on a few things.
1. Wash out the metal etch very well and use a fresh air souce to "thoroughly" dry the tank prior to adding sealant. Dont get in a hurry.......
2. Under no circumstances do you want to put the lid back on the container of sealant. "It will explode" I'd get the smallest kit they sell.. the metal ecth qt is more than enough "much more" and any extra sealer is just trash.
BOL
1. Wash out the metal etch very well and use a fresh air souce to "thoroughly" dry the tank prior to adding sealant. Dont get in a hurry.......
2. Under no circumstances do you want to put the lid back on the container of sealant. "It will explode" I'd get the smallest kit they sell.. the metal ecth qt is more than enough "much more" and any extra sealer is just trash.
BOL
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,574
Likes: 4
From: Golden, CO
I'm thinking that if the POR 15 is flexible enough to maintain it's bond through the thermal cycles, the existing metal should help maintain the structural aspect of the seal.
I have $275 stuck on my brain...for a new tank that leaked? I think if another $50 makes it useable, I'd be squeakin to the seller about it.
I have $275 stuck on my brain...for a new tank that leaked? I think if another $50 makes it useable, I'd be squeakin to the seller about it.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
From: Centreville USA
Originally Posted by Hypoid
I'm thinking that if the POR 15 is flexible enough to maintain it's bond through the thermal cycles, the existing metal should help maintain the structural aspect of the seal.
I have $275 stuck on my brain...for a new tank that leaked? I think if another $50 makes it useable, I'd be squeakin to the seller about it.
I have $275 stuck on my brain...for a new tank that leaked? I think if another $50 makes it useable, I'd be squeakin to the seller about it.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
My thoughts? This is on a Galaxy and not a truck, right? So no chance of switching to a radiator with a big top tank ?
Other ideas:
Don't want more pinholes? Use a good coolant, and change it at LEAST every 2 years.
Vibration is a good thing to think about ... but that would usually crack something, not cause pinholes. Pinholes sounds like corrosion.
I wouldn't seal a tank that doesn't have any holes
Just be kind to it 
Other ideas:
Don't want more pinholes? Use a good coolant, and change it at LEAST every 2 years.
Vibration is a good thing to think about ... but that would usually crack something, not cause pinholes. Pinholes sounds like corrosion.
I wouldn't seal a tank that doesn't have any holes
Just be kind to it
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
From: Centreville USA
Yes. 64 Galaxie 500 convertible. I can get a radiator from Crites that eliminates the surge tank, but it is pricey and not the look I am after. Other than the leaks, I have no cooling problems on even 90+ degree days (my limit for driving a non-air conditioned, black vinyl interior convertible. LOL).
Oh, the coolant (Prestone) get changed almost anually (this will be my fourth surge tank in five years).
I am hoping that installing the upper radiator hose as Greg Donahue recommends will help.
Oh, the coolant (Prestone) get changed almost anually (this will be my fourth surge tank in five years).
I am hoping that installing the upper radiator hose as Greg Donahue recommends will help.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
Uh, you shouldn't get any pinholes in anything changing it THAT much
I wonder - electrolysis eating away the metal somehow? Is it even possible that the tank is not electrically connected to the block somehow/someway?
I wonder - electrolysis eating away the metal somehow? Is it even possible that the tank is not electrically connected to the block somehow/someway?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
From: Centreville USA
Originally Posted by krewat
Uh, you shouldn't get any pinholes in anything changing it THAT much
I wonder - electrolysis eating away the metal somehow? Is it even possible that the tank is not electrically connected to the block somehow/someway?
I wonder - electrolysis eating away the metal somehow? Is it even possible that the tank is not electrically connected to the block somehow/someway?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
WALFORD'S 56
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
11
Nov 15, 2014 11:11 AM
dustyroad
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
Jul 21, 2014 05:51 PM
66F250CS
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Jun 11, 2013 10:58 AM