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on my 2002 4 x 4, you remove the wheel, take off two 14mm head bolts that hold the disc brake (puck- cylinder) assmebly on and hand it to the side with a bailing wire. the ABS wire and hydraulic hose will stil be connected to it. Now you pop out the disc brake pads. Next you will see the cast brake assembly holder which is bolted to the back of the knuckle with two 15mm headed bolts. they are real tight. after the holder is off, the disc just slides off the studs. The hub/ bearing assembly will remain bolted to the alxe shaft and knuckle.
the 1993 is WAY different.. you have to disassemble the hub... special tools are required. Just keep a close eye for clips, keys, and keepers.. and make sure you reassemble it just as you disassembled it.
The first time I did it, I just went by the instructions in my Haynes/Chiltons manuals and came out just fine. I would suggest you start there (Autozone offers free access to Chiltons on their website if you feel print manuals are too old-fashioned), and come back with specific questions about the procedure.
If it's like my 92 Explorer, the Haynes manual pretty much says it all. As I recall, the spindle nut is 2 3/8 inches. You will need to work the nut slightly back and forth and use a strong magnet to draw the clip out of the slot in the spindle. Don't try to remove the nut without removing the clip or you'll mess up the nut and/or spindle. A socket is the easiest thing to use, but it covers the slot that the clip is in. I was able to use a pair of big channel-lock type pliers to work the nut back and forth while applying the magnet to the clip at the same time.
Getting the clip out is the only hang-up I can think of. This is for the Auto hubs. The Manual hubs on my 94 Ranger just use a jam nut over the spindle nut with a locking washer inbetween.
If it's like my 92 Explorer, the Haynes manual pretty much says it all. As I recall, the spindle nut is 2 3/8 inches. You will need to work the nut slightly back and forth and use a strong magnet to draw the clip out of the slot in the spindle. Don't try to remove the nut without removing the clip or you'll mess up the nut and/or spindle. A socket is the easiest thing to use, but it covers the slot that the clip is in. I was able to use a pair of big channel-lock type pliers to work the nut back and forth while applying the magnet to the clip at the same time.
Getting the clip out is the only hang-up I can think of. This is for the Auto hubs. The Manual hubs on my 94 Ranger just use a jam nut over the spindle nut with a locking washer inbetween.
+1, but before I converted to manual hubs, I used a pick to remove the locking wedge.
One thing that I found helpful the first time was to lay everything on a clean paper towel in the order that it was removed.