Please to help with:

1) How hard is it to replace the wiper speed /wahsre switch? ant suggestions /instructions???

2) If a gas cap no longer clicks when closed/shut can this cause engine light to come on?

 

1 im not sure, whats the problem? not fast enough or completly quit working?

2 again, im not sure, but if you have a parts store that will pull codes for you then have them pull the codes and bring them back to us and we can read them for you

Matt

 

Sometimes the washer shoots out fluid and sometimes it does not - the buttom on the bar on the steering coluum is malfunctioning -I need to replace it. the bar contains both the washer button which you push in and also the on/off and delay for the wipers. How to change??

I had system read they said it was EGR valve which I replaced yet the light came back on twice now after I disconneted the battery . I am suspicious that the fuel cap is shot as it does not click anymore when tightened. Came on last nite as I hit a bump on 295

 

On the intermittent washer, could be several things, from a faulty washer pump motor, electrical connector at he pump, bad ground, to clogged lines or nozzles on the wipers, to as you suspect, a faulty multifunction switch.

Do you also have random, fantom wiper action too???? Turning on by themselves, even though they're turned off?????
If so, there is a no cost replacement service program # 00B40, to repace the multifunction switch, that covers 99-2000 Rangers & other Fords, so if the washer switch portion of your multifunction switch is also bad, the entire multifunction switch would be replaced at no cost, under this program.
Do a forum search for the 00B40 program details.

If you arent covered by the program, I suppose you could try a plastic safe electrical contact cleaner spray, like the one Radio Shack sells & see if it'll wake the switch up.

If all that comes to naught & you have to replace the switch, look on AutoZones repair web site for instructions, or drop by your library & check out a repair manual.

On the EGR code, it would be helpful if we had the code number they pulled.
Many times on the Ranger, a EGR code is caused by the DPFE sensor, which controls the EGR valve, it's rarely the EGR valve itself.

Just some thoughts to ponder.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Replacing the wiper/turn signal (multi-function switch) is easy...

Remove the screws under your steering column and remove the bottom steering column cover. Turn the key to the on position, press up on the release button (buttom of igntion switch) and pull the whole stich out. Remove the upper steering column cover. Remove the two screws (one on top and one on bottom) of the multi-function switch... pull the switch assembly away from the steering column, and release the locking tabs of the electrical connectors and unplug them (being careful not to break the clips).

Reinstallation is the reverse of installation, except it can be a bit of a pain to get the plastic steering column covers to line up (if they aren't perfect, the steering wheel will rub against them).

Not a big deal.. I've done hundreds...

 

Seems to me, it would be advisable to disarm the air bag, before tinkering with electricals in the steering wheel!!!!

 

GOOD point and thanx for info!!!

 

Although not a bad suggestion at all it's not neccesary on that operation as teh electrical for the airbag is not unhooked and thus it's not prone to bieng set off. But with that said pulling the airbag fuse is an easy way to not worry about it. But then again, disconnecting the battery is even better way to disable the airbags and make sure you don't short out the washer switch at the same time.(kind of like the manual suggests even though I am terrible about actually following manuals sometimes)

 

Super!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I may have forgotten to mention that when I press the washer bottom (in) the wipers do work for the wash cycle but no signal is getting to the washer pump motor.

Put back old EGR valve and trook back to AZ -

Do you wipe out the codes when you take the battery off or do you need to delee them with the analyzer?? I discoonecetd the battery aftetr I put the new EGR valve on the engine light stayed off for 70 miles - did this at least 3 times. I then put the old EGR back on and had AZ wipe out the codes with their unit.

 

Yes you wipe out the codes, when you remove the battery cables & it can be done with a scan tool, without removing the battery cables.

As fordboy_52 previously asked, we really need you to post ALL the code numbers AZ is finding.

After re-reading your first post, I see I missed the part where you said the wipers were working, but the washers were spitting itermittently, so I might suspect as I first answered, an electrical problem to, or with, the washer pump motor, located in the bottom of the washer tank.

Look for damaged wiring, bad ground, a loose connector, or corroded pins or sockets within, a bad pump motor, or something wrong with the signal coming out of the GEM module, to the pump motor, or even stopped up lines or spray nozzles on the wiper arms.

I think with your intermittent symptoms I'd put the pump motor, electrical connector, wiring & ground connection & stopped up lines or nozzles, high on the suspect list right now.

I see we never answered your question about the gas cap not clicking/CEL relationship. If the gas cap doesn't seal properly, it can upset the gas tank vapor recovery vacuum purge system & turn on the CEL. So make sure the cap is snugged down & not loose & leaking air past it's seal & the seal surface is smooth & undamaged. If in doubt replace the cap.

Again, it would be helpful if you would post ALL the trouble code/s AZ is finding.

As I posted earlier on the EGR code, the EGR valve itself, is rarely bad, most times it's a faulty DPFE sensor, that controls the EGR valve, that trips a EGR code. So again, we really need the code number/s AZ is finding. lol

Just some more thoughts to ponder.

 

Going after a new DPFE sensor tonight same problem 2 years ago! bought an after market and not ford item last time.

Washer system is going to be an issue!

TX for help

 

1st issue)--2 years ago had same engine light issue- Hard to believe but the solution was the same this time around -cracked vacuum line leading to left hand side of the DPFE sensor. BEWARE it could be a line and NOT the EGR or sensor

2nd issue) Heater fan working great- Thanks for all the help. --(PAW PAW)

3rd issue) Screwed the pooch with the windshield washer pump- found out it was the switch which is in the turn signal /wiper switch arm/bar on the steering column. WOW did I mess that up--took cap off , unscrewed holding screw-found little white plug type switch that has contacts on the far side -saw that 1 contact was bent-fixed it and tried to reassemble/ to put back together oooops- from the very center of the arm from a VERY narrow hole (where the holding screw came out of) a small brass cap covering a very small=-thin spring about 1 inch long popped out- I tried to force this cap/spring combo back into the hole without success- then it got ugly a forced it back in now the whole unit is malfunctioning.

From what I can tell the thin spring with the brass cap is molded into the center hole of the arm unit and when you take the screw out you can no longer put the thin spring/brass cap item back into the hole????


NOW I guess I need to replace the whole arm? going to visit junk yards today to find it- BIGGER question is how does the whole arm come off?? I am told it twists on and off??? ANY thoughts on this tale of woe?????????

TRYING TO KEEP THIS RANGER ON THE ROAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Hojnowsr, before you buzz off to the salvage yard, you might want to read through the followng thread, that covers replacement of the multifunction switch under program #00B40 by your local Ford store!!!!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=272071

 

My truck is NOT on the recall list UGH!!! new part is $56.38 from ford and they want $128 to replace the old one. WHile I am failry good with things I am sketical about doing this one-advice???