95 Front Axle U-Joints
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From: Michigan
95 Front Axle U-Joints
I am in the process of replacing the u-joints on the front end of my truck. In looking at the u-joints it appears that there is a inner c clip holding the u-joint in place. Is this correct??? Also how do you get the passengers side axle shaft out? I have the drivers side out already.
Bob
Bob
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Joined: Nov 2005
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Same as the driver side. Pull off the wheel, disassemble the hub, pull the hub/rotor off, then the bearings. Then take the 5 or 8 bolts off the spindle (5 or 8 depending on if its a F-150, or a 250/350). Take the spindle off (<-- not an easy deal, involves plenty of PB Blaster, A block of wood, a chisel and hammer, or air chisel, lots of cussin', and maybe if you are lucky, a beer or twenty. You chisel where the spindle meets the knuckle, just be sure not to mar the machined surface of the spindle that the bearings ride on.). Then the axle shaft should slide right out. From there, pull the Jesus clips out off the U caps, and beat the one cap til the other side pops out enough so you can grab it with a pair of channies, yank that B-Stard out. Then it goes back together reverse of that^. Good Luck.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Grande Prairie, AB
umm, no the shaft for the passenger side is held in the same way the rear axles are held in, there is a clip inside the front differential. you must if you want to remove it pull the front diff off the swing arm (better to flush the diff and clean it) and remove the c clip. There is another way to accomplish this and that is by pulling the rubber boot for the slip shaft and leaving the internal piece inside the diff, sometimes easier said then done. But if there is a will there is a way. I have done a few of these setups and each time was the same as explained. There is no pulling out of the shaft by pulling on it, otherwise why would the slip shaft be there. The shaft would come out of the diff instead while the suspension was working.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
The passenger side drive axle has 2 U-joints in it, the outer piece should slide out same as the drivers side(there is a slip joint between the 2 shafts), but the inner piece containing the center U-joint is c-clipped into the diff. You'll need to drop the pumpkin and remove the c-clip to get this piece off.
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From: Michigan
Mine has a Dana 44 front end. It is different on the passengers side. It has a boot about half way to the pig which I assume contains the slip joint that I need to take apart to get the axle out of the knuckle.
Bob L.
Bob L.
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: West Mansfield, Ohio
Fordor you are correct. That boot comes apart. You do not have to take the axleshaft out of the differential. I've done this 4000 times. Just carefully undo the boot.... Mine had zip ties around both ends where it'd been worked on before.... just cut them and carefully seperate the boot. It will take a little sweet talkin to convince it to come apart.
For future reference, specify whether or not you have a 150, 250, or 350, so that we can determine your axle and eliminate any and all wars due to confusion.
For future reference, specify whether or not you have a 150, 250, or 350, so that we can determine your axle and eliminate any and all wars due to confusion.
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Senior User
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From: Michigan
I do have a 150, but I don't plan on changing the inner u-joint. That sounds like way more than I can tackle, plus it's getting cold around here and I'm working outside on this one. Thanks everyone for all your information. I'll let you know how it turns out. I've already broken my breaker bar trying to get the nut off the top ball joint. Snapped the end right off it. Good thing it was a craftsman. Took it back and they replaced it no questions asked. I guess it's time to fire up the torches and put some heat on it.
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Originally Posted by fordor
I've already broken my breaker bar trying to get the nut off the top ball joint. Snapped the end right off it. Good thing it was a craftsman. Took it back and they replaced it no questions asked. I guess it's time to fire up the torches and put some heat on it.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Ashland City, TN
Yea, make sure you soak the crap outa those things with PB Blaster the night before you work on it, and again in the morning while your drinking yoru coffee.
Yea, the front end type makes a big diff on whats going on. hahaha.
Yea, the front end type makes a big diff on whats going on. hahaha.
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Senior User
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From: Michigan
yea I used the PB Blaster, put some heat on the nut and a 4' cheater bar on my breaker bar did the trick. For a minute I thought it was going to break my breaker bar again. Drivers side done, now onto the passengers side. Should go smoother since I got a system now.
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From: Michigan
Ok, I got the u-joints installed. The ball joints installed into the knuckles, now it's time to put everything back together. What is the torque specs on the ball joints and tie rod ends? Has anyone replaced the bearing on the back of the spindle? I got a Timken rebuild kit which included a new bearing, but it's different than the original. Also where does the plastic washer go ? Which way does it go? Towards the pig or away from the pig? I'm talking about the beveled side of the plastic washer.
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