I'm new to diesel repair and i could use some help. Thanks

1st time it died I was towing my camper doing 70mph and it was like someone turned the key off and it just quit running and it would not restart . Had it towed home and tried starting it 3 hours later and it fired up.

Replaced the CPS with an International sensor (Part# 1825899C93), changed the fuel filter and checked the HVOP oil level (All looked good)

Truck ran great for 3 days and it died again today going down the road (like someone turned off the key) wont resart this time.

Bought 2 new batteries replacing originals, motor turns over with the tach reading 300 RPM, No smoke out the exhaust when trying to start but you can feel air coming out. took out the fuel filter and turned the motor over and the bowl fills with fuel. GPR clicks on and off.

Motor turns over but still will not start.

Any ideas will be greatly appreaciated.

 

It sounds like you got a defective CPS and yes it can happen. You should be replacing it with a factory unit (Black) the blue ones have been troublesome.

 

Kick-n-it:
Does your "Wait to start" light in the dash come on when you initially turn the key on?

If not, check your underhood fuse box for a burnt fuse in position 22. That's the fuse for the fuel heater, and as i recall the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). If the fuse blows, no start. Why does it blow? The most likely and common reason is the disc in the fuel filter housing below the filter. When the fuel heater element mounting pads (3 of them, about 1/2" in diameter or so) rot/vibrate away, the element grounds out against the filter housing and blows the fuse.

Before you buy another cps, check for a blown #22 fuse. If so, repair the existing fuel heater, buy a new one, or remove it altogether, the last option is what i did many years ago. Perhaps it was already disconnected or removed, if you're still blowing the fuse, then look back on the wire harness for open insulation or such, and tape it up. If you choose to remove it, it's a simple fix, but the plastic standpipe in the filter housing is reverse thread. It's turned clockwise to remove, counter clockwise to tighten, use a 7/8" crow foot wrench, some have just used water pump pliers too. If you break it though, Ford wants plenty for a new one.

Here's a link to someone's upgrade, but details part of the process for removing it as well.
http://www.thedwilsons.com/powerstro...eater_Mod.html

One other thought, take your oil cap off the valve cover and either smell it, or get your nose as close as possible to the fill hole, and smell. What you are looking for is a burnt electrical smell. If nothing, then probably not the problem. If you do smell something though, the under valve cover wiring harness' have probably shorted out. Not too bad to fix. I won't get into more details, but they are probably plentiful somewhere in the board. Let's try to trouble shoot your problem some more first.

Check for a burnt fuse first, and let us know.
Ken

 

It was throttle censor for me.

 

I checked fuse #22 and it was good. And after reading several posts i thought I would look for a short in the wiring going to the CPS. I borrowed a Snap-on tool that detects short circuits and after taking the plug off the CPS and putting this tool in the plug with the key to the truck off it sparked and didn't pop the breaker on the snap-on tool (that is supposed to happen if there is a short). Now when i try to start the truck, the WTS light doesn't turn and the GPR doesn't make any noise and the check engine light stays on. ( I have no way to read the codes for the CEL) The truck will not start now. I have checked fuses 22 and 9 and they are good. I have a new CPS coming from E-bay for my previous problem. Any ideas on where to start on why my GPR and WTS light aren't working?

 

Do you have a DrawTite electric brake controller? If so change out for another brand. It took several times of mine dying like that to find out that was the problem.

 

Well I gave in and took the truck to a garage. found out that the IPR was bad. It apparently got hot and melted the wires an inch out from the connector and when it got hot the truck wouldn't start until it cooled down. replaced IPR and the bad wiring and all is good.

Thanks to all for the feed back.

 

I have this same problem, the truck completely died on me driving to work this morning, and the "Wait To Start" light no longer comes on... I'm hoping its simply the fuse in 22.

Can anyone tell me what type/size of fuse is in #22 so I can pick one up and take it with me to night Hopefully it'll get me home, but I guess I'll have to repair whatever shorted it as well.

 

It's called a "Maxi-Fuse", the parts counter guys should know what you are asking for.
You need a 30 Amp fuse..looks like this:
http://www.consumabulbs.com/photo/30a%20Maxi.jpg

Disconnect the fuel heater on the side of the fuel filter housing.
It's difficult to get to with your hands... use a thin blade screw driver and gently pry it off. Be gentle or you can cause a leak.
It's the second one down on the drivers side. Kinda squarish looking.