What kind of ignition module is the truck running?
Was the backfiring thru the carb fixed at the mechanic shop?
What other engine problems have you noted?

 

Sounds to me like the timing is outa whack.. it turns over but wont fire up? Sometimes it does and runs. Try turning the idle screw in far enough to be sure..like 1.5 turns 540º or so then start it, if it stays running back it down to 850, remove the vac advance hose, put a timing light on it.. 6-12º should be good for a quick start. See if it starts good, yes.. let it warm up & set the floats at opp temp, connect up a vac gauge and set the mixture. Hope it works cause ..."ignition issues SUCK"

 

I believe that it could be a combination of outta whack carb and timing. Just waiting for the weather to clear and to get back on my feet.

 

Check the supply to the new system, and make sure it's getting 12 volts during start.

Good luck with it! Ibuprofen, Celebrex and even narcotic painkillers are a GOOD THING.

 

If you decide to get a new distributor, consider our D.U.I.-Davis Unified Ignition or our custom curved Duraspark distributor. Please see them at:


http://www.performancedistributors.com/forddui.htm

 

Hey guys, just got to dredge up the past and let you know what is up with the ole boy. Thought I had him straight but he seemed to still run a little doggy. It got worst and once again it would not hold time. After pulling out my remainding hair I decided to bring him to a reputable shop. Come to find out I have a vac leak in my 3-4 cylinder ares. I believe that it is the intake gasket because I have had this to replace this gasket several times. Twice by me and twice by a mechanic. I have the performer rpm intake and stock heads. I am thinking that there is a few problems here. Is it possible that I need to have my intake milled? Am I using the wrong type gasket? I used fel-pro gaskets. Just the standard one for 390 etc. This is driving me crazy because some of the bolts are a little hard to get the torque wrench on. My harmonic balancer has slipped and the dist was one tooth off on the cam. Any suggestions on reasonably priced qaulity and possible prices. I am almost ready to just get an old cast iron intake set up for a 4 barrel. What is a resonable price to pay for a good one? A guy by the house has one for about $150.00 Will just anyone work or do I need research to see what is compatable? I am also wanting to go ahead and see about those c7ae-heads. If I am heading down a road of disaster then please stop me. Help please help if you can. Any crazing suggestions will be considered. Thanks-Warren

 

Also I bought a smaller carb. Dont know if that matters. I went from a edelbrock 750 to a Holley 650

 

you could place a straight edge type of something , ( carpenters square ?) along the manifold and check it for straightness , something could be warped from excessive heat .Or have a machine shop do it . 150 bucks sounds excesive for a old cast iron 4 brl. intake . A shot of starting fluid might have detected a vacum leak too if it was leaking around the head gasket . All i run is a 600 holley on my beast . gas costs too dam much to run anything bigger .

You might even be surprised if you would have had the deck of the block trued up when / if it was being rebuilt while in the machine shop ,,, i know i was .

 

Appreciate the info. I think I found the problem, it is with the fel pro gaskets. hopefully

 

responded to the other thread as well. Might want to try some Dykem on the intake install process (done dry) and see what it tells you. (stock)Balancers are cheap at pick a part.

 

what is dykem?

 

When i put a 4 BBL manifold on my 360 i got it for 50.00 so i think 150.00 is a lil outrageous. Just a thought

Thanks

Matthew