Hey there, new here. HELP! Just replaced hyd. lifters on my 1970 460 that is in my 1983 F-350 1 ton dually and it has no power. Prior to changing lifters, comp. was 175. Timing is on mark, top dead center, distributer is setting on #1. Runs but has no power, power only at high rpms, no cat at all. New carb, new plugs, wires and distributer. Still no power on low end. The engine was rebuilt out of a Lincoln Cont. and ran great until lifters collapsed, died in yard. Cam OK. What am I missing? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

A 460 will run 180 out of time. Did you feel for compression before you placed the distributor? I have heard the phrase collapsed lifter but have never seen it. Were they just plugged up so the oil couldn't pump them up? I was always taught it was a cardinal sin to not change the cam and lifters at the same time. I have seen it tried and the cam usually went flat in the first couple minutes. Sorry I couldn't be of more help but these are some of the things that cam to mind.

 

You can reuse an old cam with new lifters or the old ones.

But if the old lifters are not put back in the same hole they came out of, you are in trouble.

 

Are you sure you set the valve lash correctly? A 1970 460 has adjustable valve lash. If you set the the lifters too tight you will have no power.

Just a thought.

John

 

You are absolutely correct, tinkering with motor today, running through the valve sequence of the ford motor book that I have does not specify on this year motor, went back through firing order sequence for adjusting the valves and just snug it down to where the rocking arm would not wiggle at all on the valve, has improved low power in it but still have to adjust the valves again until I can get them close enough by ear, cannot find the proper book that I need for this motor, any input would be sincerly appreciated.

 

On hydraulics I like to set them running. I loosen up each rocker nut one at a time till they click and then tighten them down until they stop clicking and then give them another 1/4 turn down.

Question: How did you determine the old lifters were collapsed?

 

You should set them where they take up all the slack then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn then lock them down. You can set them up loose. Then they will be "anti-pump" up lifters, of course you will lose a little lift and duration by doing this and you'll have the noise of solid lifters.

 

Stiil stuck. Need to know if anyone would have a book on this motor, need to know the proper way to adjust these valves with the feeler gauge, when you bring it up top dead center, do you blead the hydraulic lifters all the way off then tighten the rocker arms and then check your gap? Or, do you pump your hydraulic lifters up and have it at dead top center at number 1, then tighten your rocker arms up and check your Gap.

 

I have the genuine Ford manual. Do you have a fax?

 

You can't do them all at once!!! I can explain how to do it here, or you can just get a book. A book may be your best bet.

 

There is a feeler gauge method but it is just to rough them in so it will start. The best way is to do it running. Just do one side at a time and to minimize the mess find an old valve cover and just cut out enough of the top of it to get on the adjusting bolts good. Then once it's all back together spray a can of engine cleaner on the engine and rinse it down with a hose.

 

The sure fire way to do it, is to turn you engine by hand until you see the intake valve open. Keep going until the INTAKE just starts to CLOSE. At that point adjust you exhaust valve for that cylinder. Adjust it down until it just takes up the slack, then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Then turn your engine until the EXHAUST just starts to OPEN. At that point adjust the intake valve for that cylinder in the same manner as described above. Do that for each cylinder, following your firing order. Once this is done. You are done. Bolt it up and run it. You can do the same with solids but you need the engine to be warm first to allow for expansion. Of course with solids you'll need to allow for proper clearancing with the feeler guages. There is a faster method called splitting the firing order, but it is a little more complicated. Follow the instructions above and you can't screw up.

JJ

 

ASEL you can also use a vacuam guage. Start somewhere, with the engine running and tighten a valve down till you see the vacuam guage react, then loosen that valve till the guage goes back to the way it was. Go right down one bank and then on to the other bank.
Listen with a piece of hose to see if you loosend a valve too much.
Soon, as you get through all the valves, the vacuam guage will quiet down pretty good and you can go back through the valves with a feeler guage to see if you have one too tight or too loose.
As you insert the Feeler guage, the Vacuam guage should see it and start bouncing. The Vacuam guage will tell you more than the feeler guage.
Maybe even better than a Dial mic and a Degree wheel will do for you on a Solid lifters engine.