unhooked wastegate
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unhooked wastegate
I unhooked the red line to the wastegate and plugged it and now ive had the boost peak at about 23 psi, it normally peaks at 15-16.
ive heard of lots of people doing this
so does anybody have any input? (pros/cons, things to look for)
ive heard of lots of people doing this
so does anybody have any input? (pros/cons, things to look for)
Not a liberal...
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Cut & Shoot, Texas
How hard was it to pull the red line off of the waste gate? I have pulled and pulled on mine and it will not budge at all. I have pulled so hard I was afraid I would break it. Anyone else have a similar experience?
Not a liberal...
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Cut & Shoot, Texas
Yep, that's the one. Red hose, goes into the gold canister sort of on the drivers side of the turbo. I have tried twice and both times I thought I was going to tear it up so I stopped.
Maybe I will try again tomorrow. Am curious to see how it runs with it off.
Maybe I will try again tomorrow. Am curious to see how it runs with it off.
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Originally Posted by powrstrkn'
Search the archives Kwikkordead had a post about his findings, pro cons it convinced me to just crank the rod in and leave the vacuum line on.
Laughing Gas
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go to the search tool and search for "kwikkordead wastegate" or just type in kwikkordead and read all of his threads.
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Cargo Master
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Is there a noticeable increase in acceleration (or anything else) by removing the line to the wastegate? or cranking the rod to the wastegate?
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Post Fiend
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From: Parker, CO
Originally Posted by Robert6401
Is there a noticeable increase in acceleration (or anything else) by removing the line to the wastegate? or cranking the rod to the wastegate?
You need a wastegate on the stock turbos because the turbine housing is too small. Without the wastegate you'll have too high of drive pressure, causing a big imbalance and possibly wear out your turbo faster.
Most say that 20 psi of boost is a good fail-safe max level. At 25 you are starting to reach the end of any efficiency range the turbo might have. Go over 25 psi too much and damage can happen. Of course there are plenty (like me) who have gone over 25 psi without ill effects. My personal best is 31 psi on the stock turbo. But it's now sitting in a box in the garage.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2005
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Well, I just pulled the red line and took it for a short test drive and didn't notice any increase in seat-of-the-pants power. I do not have gauges, so I don't have any idea how much boost is actually being produced. Do you have to be at WOT for there to be any noticeable change? Thanks.
Bob
Bob
Fleet Owner
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by Bin Strokin
where is the kwikkordead archives?
I've made a lot of posts (8000+) at the time of this writing.
Rather than make you wade through all that, I'll give a quick post about my opinion on the disconnecting the WG on the stock turbo. DON'T.
They have a huge imbalance of drive pressure VS the amount of boost that they make and that pressure differential is very hard on the thrust bearing of the turbocharger itself and the WG helps vent that excess pressure as needed. IMO you can get away with short full throttle blasts to get the high boost without much trouble. But if you carry a load or pull a trailer and it makes the engine work hard, like they are built to do, then it's extremely hard on the thrust bearing of the turbo.
Ford spec's on the WG adjustment is to have the WG begin to open when there is 5psi applied to the control canister that opens the WG. To me that seems a touch low so I set it to open at 10-12 psi. I'll get 18 psi on the freeway on ramp and no loss of power, no smoke either once boost is built, so it's getting plenty of air.
This procedure requires that you obtain a low pressure gauge to get the job done properly.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: LA and CO
Kwik how are you able to be sure it's opening at 10-12 PSI?
Can I use a hand pump and pump it up to 10-12psi and watch the rod start to move? Is it that simple? If so, I'll just get a hand pump at work that we use to calibrate pressure switches.
Can I use a hand pump and pump it up to 10-12psi and watch the rod start to move? Is it that simple? If so, I'll just get a hand pump at work that we use to calibrate pressure switches.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by John7894
Kwik how are you able to be sure it's opening at 10-12 PSI?
Can I use a hand pump and pump it up to 10-12psi and watch the rod start to move? Is it that simple? If so, I'll just get a hand pump at work that we use to calibrate pressure switches.
Can I use a hand pump and pump it up to 10-12psi and watch the rod start to move? Is it that simple? If so, I'll just get a hand pump at work that we use to calibrate pressure switches.
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