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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Feb 8, 2001 | 04:31 PM
  #1  
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warm up!


my 65 352 sure does take a long time to warm up on winter days. has anyone ever tried to solve this problem???
 
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Old Feb 8, 2001 | 05:51 PM
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warm up!

J Frank they are as cold as your first date. I enjoy haveing the newer carb and electric choke on my blue truck. You have to drive the thing 2 or 3 miles to stop all the coughing.

John
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66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night,
you can hear chevys rusting away.


 
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Old Feb 8, 2001 | 07:57 PM
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warm up!

Something is wrong here Gents. These old FE's are as warm hearted as my favorite Grannie. I have a Ford spacer under the Edelbrock 4 barrel on my old bug and she warms in a couple of minutes and then I push in the choke. The spacer gets hot coolant before it passes to the heater core. Also check the manifold heat riser (left side) be sure it isn't stuck open. Lay the back of your finger on the burned area on the intake manifold it should be uncomfortable about 30 seconds after start up. The heat riser forces hot exhaust across the intake warming it. Be sure the air cleaner snorkel is connected to the exhaust manifold and that the flapper is working. This is also a source for more warm air. About half the time rough running and stumbling are caused by the choke not coming off quick enough. In winter run a 195 degree thermostadt. The back of your finger works on electric chokes also.
William in Atlanta
 
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Old Feb 9, 2001 | 06:42 AM
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warm up!

William, you have been in the coffee bag too long again. Since when did 1965 F100s with 352s come with Edelbrock 4 barrels.

I have an original setup like Franks on my red truck and one like yours on my blue one. Once ol red gets warmed up, it goes hard all day long and will be going click, click, click, when you shut it down. Even with the choke partialy out that ol two barrel is still cold natured for the first couple of miles.

I am glad for you, that your's is different from the rest. :-)

John
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Club FTE since 01 01

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66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night,
you can hear chevys rusting away.


 
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Old Feb 9, 2001 | 10:00 AM
  #5  
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warm up!

I haven't my 65 F250 long but it has a 352 2bbl with the manual choke. I hadn't used a manaul choke in I can't remember when but I've got the drill on it now. Needs a good pull to start, halfway in for a brief warm up, and then basically drive it away. When the motor hits 170 degrees I push it off the rest of the way.

If I push it off early it coughs, sputters, wants to stall, etc.

Bill
 
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Old Feb 9, 2001 | 10:36 AM
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warm up!

John; Point being don’t overlook any source of warm air or heat to the engine, especially during warm up. Doesn’t matter what brand of carburetor you use or if it is two or 4 barrel. These old trucks, 6 cyl or 8, stick or automatic should fire up easily hot or cold and run smoothly straightaway after startup. If yours doesn’t check the things I mentioned.
William in Atlanta

 
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Old Feb 9, 2001 | 10:55 AM
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Just thought I would add my two cents worth. Back in the good old days, we used poor boy equipment. Motor didn't warm up quick enough, we would install a high efficiency mass air device on the radiator. ( piece of cardborard ) Biggest part of the job was callibrating the device. ( tearing the cardboard to the right size ) I once owned a 50 model ford that I had only one inche of the radiator core showing after calibration. If you don't have the special equipment to adjust the device, ( heat gage ) then you can check it out by placing your hand on the radiator. Burns your hand then, you might have your callibration off to the high side, on the other hand, your hand callibration might be off . There is one positive side to this mass air device, besides being cheap. That is, you carry your own creeper with you wherever you go in the winter. I try to double the cardboard before installing it, for this very same reason. For you that are not seasoned duct tape user's, Please do not try this without advice from just darn near anyone.
Good Luck
Rich and his 64 F100 money pit
 
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Old Feb 9, 2001 | 01:25 PM
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warm up!

William is giving serious good advice on any carb combo,
any engine, any brand name. All manufacturers use some combination of heat assist for a carb. Atomization of the
fuel actually makes the carb area colder than the rest of the
engine.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2001 | 09:36 PM
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warm up!

My 1966 with 352 has the heat riser removed.Does this cause problems?The truck cranks ok cold, then as the truck gets up to normal temp it takes a spell that it stalls and will not idle.It is not the manual choke stuck I know ,it seems like the carb is freezing up or something.Sometimes it will idle real fast like the throttle is stuck and the linkage is ok and the choke is not sticking.What can I check?
Thanks,Russell
 
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Old Feb 10, 2001 | 08:52 AM
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Russell- A manual choke is the way to go. A 195 stat will help some as well. Aluminum intakes, in my experience, allow an engine to warm up faster. Even when cold, your engine will run a lot smoother if you have a powerful electronic ignition, I'm running a duraspark with a Jacobs computer. How cold is it where you are? DF
 
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Old Feb 11, 2001 | 08:44 PM
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warm up!

I have the same problem with my 65 F250 Camper Special. It's a 390/352 hybrid w/ manual choke and what I assume is an original 2bbl carb. The heat riser has been removed and a swapped out with a cheapo chromed air filter setup. Even if I could find one, I can't put the heat riser back on because the exhaust mainfold has been removed and headers were put on.

You're right though it just takes a couple of minutes/miles to get it warmed up. I have noticed though on the couple of days that it has been above 40 degrees that it runs a lot better.

In the meantime I'm going to try Rich's suggestion for a high efficience mass air flow device!

One other problem I have is that when it's cold the gas pedal sticks a bit and I have to get my foot under it and pull it back. This doesn't seem to happen if it's above freezing. Is this common? Any thoughts on what to check?

Thanks,
Jon B
 
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Old Feb 11, 2001 | 09:20 PM
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warm up!

Jon, the linkages could be gummy and need a good spraying down with carb cleaner. A can is less than a buck and can free up a lot of gunk on a carb.

Give it a shot.

John
jowilker
Club FTE since 01 01

NC Chapter


66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night,
you can hear chevys rusting away.


 
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Old Feb 11, 2001 | 09:45 PM
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warm up!

I have a cheapy "used to be chrome" air cleaner but I don't see anything on the exhaust manifolds that makes me think this truck ever had a heatriser. It does have a flap on a spring thing in the exhaust for blocking it until warm up. On the left side.

I thought these trucks had oil bath air cleaners as original eqpt. With heat stoves I've always seen paper elements.

Bill
 
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Old Feb 12, 2001 | 07:50 AM
  #14  
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warm up!

Bill, Great observation, the truck came with an oil bath air clearner, and did not have a hot air warmer.



John
jowilker
Club FTE since 01 01

NC Chapter


66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night,
you can hear chevys rusting away.


 
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2001 | 10:36 AM
  #15  
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warm up!

I've had the "sticking gas pedal when it is cold" problem and
it was frost build up on the throttle plates. If your model
truck didn't originally come with the hot air air cleaner system
I would suspect that the exhaust channel that runs through the
intake manifold underneath the carb is clogged. This is what
the heat riser in the exhaust is for too. It blocks one side
of the engine exhaust and forces it underneath the carb till it
warms up. This channel can get plugged with carbon.
 
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