Cab Frame Mounts?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Williamson, NY
Cab Frame Mounts?
I pulled the cab off my frame today and after removing my cab bushings I found that the front frame mounts had completely rusted through. Does anyone sell these frame mounts or do I need to repair the ones I have? Anyone have any pictures of what these are supposed to look like and how big the hole for the bushing needs to be? Is the top surface of these mounts supposed to by flush or did they protrude above the surface? Thanks.
Here's a link to some photos of the frame mounts:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2227...52948230BESpne
Here's a link to some photos of the frame mounts:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2227...52948230BESpne
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,037
Likes: 9
From: Kasson, Minnesota
<HR style="COLOR: #666666" SIZE=1> I looked all over too. Its one of those parts that were not reproduced. I had the same problem with the truck i am restoring. I took 1/8 inch steel plate, and used a drill press, hole saw and made my own. Then welded the plate on top of the mount. Turned out pretty good. I believe I used an 1 and 3/4 hole saw for the mounting hole. I have a highboy chassis, so I really had no choice but to repair those. I do have some pictures in my gallery if you want to look at. It took some time to cut out the plates. Have to move real slow and use some cutting oil. You can use a torch also, but it's hard to have nice exact holes. Hope this helps. 
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From: Williamson, NY
I would think mounting the plates on top like that would cause problems with fender alignment. Did you experience any problems aligning everthing after the repair? Thank for the reply.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ilion Herkimer
try mtsalvage.com thats where i got mine from.. i had the same problem both front mounts , the rear cross member and both rear upper shock mounts.. all used parts from the south... i may have opics in my gallery of the new/used parts
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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I have made frame plates with a hole saw out of 12 gauge steel. A big hole saw and a slow drill press is required I can't remember what size I used. I just used one to fit the bushing. Deburr the holes real well. The metal slugs also like to jam inside the hole saw. Clamp the metal down real well or someone may get injured.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Western Kentucky
I had the same problem on my highboy. I ordered new bushings and then I made new plates to weld over the holes with a matching hole to fit the new bushings. As for extra spacing and alignment, I made one for every mount whether it needed it or not. That way every mount had the same 1/8" spacing. I'll try to post pics soon.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ilion Herkimer
i covered mine with steel the first time and didn't want to deal with doing it again. i paid right around 150 bucks including shipping for my parts. cut the old ones out ,install the new ones and i'm good for anpother 25-30 years.....for me it was worth the money, since i'm doing a full frame off reastoration of my truck.
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 736
Likes: 3
From: South East, Michigan
When I restored my truck the mounts looked just like yours, I first welded large washers on top of the old rusted mounts. This worked well, but I didn't like it for a complete restoration. So, I removed the old rusted out mounts and replaced them with the mounts from the 2WD donor truck from Georgia which were in great shape. I air hammered the rivet's off and used grade 8 allen head bolts to install them to the frame. Both front mounts and the rear cab mount cross member were replaced. -Ed
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 791
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From: Backwoods of western Pa
We ran into the same problem while restoring my dad's '76 Hiboy. We just made plates out of 1/8" steel with the torch, then ground the outside to clean up the torch burn. We didn't have any problem with fender alignment, but it even had aftermarket fenders which didn't fit the greatest to start with.
2wd frame mounts won't work because his truck is a hiboy, the frames are narrower.
Also, just as a note, make sure you save the metal spacers and washers from your old bushings. We ordered a cab mount bushing kit, but the spacers and washers didn't come with it, by that time we had already thrown out the old bushings and spacers (dumb move). We ended up fab'ing new spacers out of steel pipe and welding them to large washers.
When I restored my truck the mounts looked just like yours, I first welded large washers on top of the old rusted mounts. This worked well, but I didn't like it for a complete restoration. So, I removed the old rusted out mounts and replaced them with the mounts from the 2WD donor truck from Georgia which were in great shape. I air hammered the rivet's off and used grade 8 allen head bolts to install them to the frame. Both front mounts and the rear cab mount cross member were replaced. -Ed
Also, just as a note, make sure you save the metal spacers and washers from your old bushings. We ordered a cab mount bushing kit, but the spacers and washers didn't come with it, by that time we had already thrown out the old bushings and spacers (dumb move). We ended up fab'ing new spacers out of steel pipe and welding them to large washers.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,037
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From: Kasson, Minnesota
I haven't mounted the cab yet or anything else on my frame. I don't expect any alignment issues. The steel plating I used is alot stronger than the original steel, so I don't expect any rusting issues either. I used a couple really good coats of paint also. It would have been nice to have good originals, but since I have that narrower frame, I probably would have had a hard time finding those. Also, I fixed my old mounts from less than 10 bucks and they will last a long time.
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