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cAN ANYONE EXPLAIN TO ME THE 10K OR 18K MOD? i'VE SEEN A DIODE IN A PLUG AND IT INCRESED THE INJECTION ACTUATION PRESSUR BUT DO NOT KNOW THE EXACT PROCEEDURE CAN ANYONE ENLIGHTEN ME WITH THIS INFO? THANK-YOU IN ADVANCE..HERMAN2001
Just type 10k mod into yahoo and you will get all the info you could ever need. www.forgotton.net has a good white-up about it. There are so many ways of doing the 10k mod there really isnt one procedure so to speak. I used what was on the website above. Made a plug and play with the GM pigtail, diodes and 680ohm resister.
it is a variable resistor in line with the ICP sensor. when the 5V VREF signal is sent out to the sensor, the sensor drops the voltage like normally, and then the 10K resistor creates another voltage drop. so when the signal gets back to the PCM, it sees that the ICP is reading low, because it was being fooled by the resistor. now the IPR keeps a higher injection pressure in the oil rails in the heads for increased performance, a rougher idle though.
The 10k works really well for a little power boost at a very little cost. I had to put it on a relay tied to the idle validation switch to solve the rough idle.
Joe
mine does not have a rough idle at all but i have an adjustable one from sp diesel and i leave it turned down almost all the time until i need some extra power and theni can turn up the resistor. it definately makes a difference
Not that desirable? I guess it's all relative, I love the 5.6k mod I did. Yes, when switched on it's a pretty rough idle, but HOLY!!!!!!! Does the truck EVER take off!!! It's pretty cool when you're sitting beside people at a light and they are checking out the rig, so I'll flip the 5.6k mod switch and the trucks sounds NASTY through the open exhaust and stacks. But the cool part is how the truck has some serious power increase. I certainly don't use it all the time, but when I do, it's fun. :-)
Mine Idled horribly!!! Not to mention it was near impossible to drive with a six speed. This is in my opinion the worst mod you can do to your truck. It is cheap but I'm sure the repair bill would not be. I tore Mine out after one trip around the block. I guess others run well on them, mine did not and I wouldn't recommend this to anyone...even if it was possible on the Dodge boys outfits.
[QUOTE=kalsc]Not that desirable? I guess it's all relative, I love the 5.6k mod I did. Yes, when switched on it's a pretty rough idle, but HOLY!!!!!!! Does the truck EVER take off!!!
Buy a chip or programmer and you will laugh at the 10K. By the way, nice truck!
True, the 5.6k, 10k and 18k mods alone are no comparison to most chips and/or programmers, but when you start to stack, then who has the last laugh!!! :-)
As for running horribly, I can see this mod not being all that great with a standard as the engine does get pretty snappy and trying to run a smooth clutch engagement might be tough.
The rough idle reminds me of my high lift, high duration, punched out 460 gasser I have in my 79 Bronco.
Oh well, chalk it up to it works for some and not for others and for those that it works for ENJOY! For those that it doesn't, rip it out and move on. :-)
Can you not just put the resistor in line with the wires going to your iap sensor?
No. Putting the resistor in series with the existing sensor will cause just the opposite of what you want it to. You will add MORE resistance. What you want to do is run the resistor in PARALLEL with the sensor. This way there is LESS resistance than the highest resistance and more than the least in the circuit.
i reasearched the 10k mod and found that theres a better version (clamp2 mod) i installed it yesterday and it works great i hooked mine up with a switch so i can turn it on and off, just watch the egt's
Go here www.forgotton.net/frame.html and click on the F-350 tab scroll down and its called the (diode clamp mod) the (10k mod) is right above it if you want but the diode clamp mod is better because it doesent make a rough idle and it wont overload the sensor.
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