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I have converted many a GM alternator from external to internal over the years with the help of a diagram from Hot Rod magazine I kept over the years.
I am looking for information on swapping in a GM or Ford internal regulated alternator into my stock 64 with a 292. I never really liked external regulators due to the maintenance and reliability issues related to the higher power demands of accessories.
The problem I have now is that if I run the wipers, headlights, and defroster while driving, I show a steady discharge on the ammeter. Also, at idle, I get a steady charge needle without a load, a slight discharge with the lights on, but I also get a vast vibration of the needle to both ends of the scale off idle and at 2300 rpm and up. The local parts houses (both of them) have tested the charging system and tell me the system is working. I know it works but I am annoyed at the needle spazzing out.
Krosati
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Do you mean that you have converted it to a "one wire" configuration? I did this on a 10SI alternator by simply connecting the two barb terminals. The drawback was that the field would not energize until about 2000 rpm, okay for a speedboat, but not for a truck. I learned later that there is a regulator available that is made with the two terminals joined, that will allow the alternator to charge without a momentary increase of rpm.
Eric
Eric,
I haven't heard it called a one wire conversion before but yes, that's pretty much how I do it.
I take the lead from the regulator, cut the brown, white, and blue wire from the connector, splice the brown to the blue, and connect the blue to the #1(field) connection on the alternator.
Then attach a jumper from the battery terminal on the alternator to the #2(relay) connection at the alternator.
This hookup will work with all GM alternators (10SI and 12SI up to 65 amps)with any GM vehicle using an external regulator.
Krosati
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You have converted your truck and it is not working? Or your truck is still original and you are worried about the needle fluctuations? If it is the second, then I would put a DVMM on the system and check voltage levels with different loads. The original amp guages are mainly for looks and not very good for useful information.
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